Readers’ favourite trips in Germany: ‘We wandered every cobbled street and climbed every gothic tower’
10.05.2024 - 16:14
/ theguardian.com
/ Martin Luther
Lübeck – Queen of the Hanseatic League – has a fading charm and vulnerability absent from the likes of Berlin, Munich and Hamburg … and most of Germany. I loved my trip there, wandering the cobbled streets, climbing every brick gothic church tower – generally alone! Thomas Mann wrote the unbearably sad novel Buddenbrooks there, then fled to the US from nazism in 1939. The Tin Drum author Günter Grass lived and worked in Lübeck in later life. Visit their former houses, now museums, the Grass-Haus and the Buddenbrook Haus. A singular German city, full of history and significance.
Martin Charlesworth
Marburg, the small, ancient university town about an hour by train north of Frankfurt, is a fairytale destination, not least because it was once home to the Brothers Grimm. Every cobbled lane leads uphill to the castle, which looms above Marburg’s timber-framed Oberstadt. The castle was host to Martin Luther in 1529, and the Elisabethkirche, one of Germany’s earliest gothic churches, was an important medieval pilgrimage site. One of the main attractions is at the town hall, where, at midday, locals and visitors congregate to witness a brass cockerel (the Gockelhahn) flap its mechanical wings to mark the hour.
Anna
For a viewing tower that outdoes Berlin, take one of the little yellow trams, which then become a funicular, up Stuttgart’s spiralling streets. The views from the tower towards the Black Forest are stunning, and the external viewing platform will have you wondering whether it is gently swaying, or if it’s just your knees wobbling. Stuttgart is a leafy city with great art at the Kunstmuseum and archaeological finds at Landesmuseum Württemberg, and the Swabian cuisine and wines in the local Weinstuben are lighter and tastier than in many other major cities.
Tim Proctor
Guardian Travel readers' tips
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About 25 miles south-west of Munich is Andechs Monastery – Bavaria at its most idyllic and authentic. Sitting atop Ammersee (Lake Ammer), this Benedicitine monastery and pilgrimage church is popular for its brewery, restaurant and beer garden. It makes the perfect day out: take the S-Bahn from Munich to Herrsching, then hike 40 minutes gently uphill through lovely forest. On arrival, reward yourself with steins of great beer and Bavarian fare. Call into the beautiful St Martin’s church on your way back down to Herrsching, where you can have an ice-cream by the shores of the lake (or take a dip) and watch the boats before returning to Munich.
Sonutschka
If you can, spend time in the beautiful city of