Retreat to Crete: why the Greek island is a perfect escape
15.04.2024 - 09:05
/ theguardian.com
Sometimes, when you travel, you arrive somewhere so ridiculously picturesque, so dictionary-definition of how you expect the country to look, that you half suspect it was built as a film set, or has been “Disneyfied” specifically for tourists.
I get this feeling when I walk on to the small, horseshoe-shaped bay at Mochlos, Crete. Half a dozen restaurants, all cobalt wooden chairs, whitewashed tables and blackboards offer gyros and freshly caught fish. On the slim strip of stones that fringes the low sea wall, a handful of locals is towelling off after a late dip, the last two heads bobbing in the metallic blue water, the small, humpy island behind them backlit by the apricot-gold light of the sun, slowly dipping beneath the horizon.
I settle in with a cold Mythos and order up a plate of crispy gyros, fresh pitta and tzatziki. As I gaze out over the slowly darkening Gulf of Mirabello, I feel sure that a week here, doing nothing but pottering the 10-minute walk between my hotel, the Mochlos Blue, and this ramshackle clutch of tavernas, would be more restorative than a luxurious spa hotel.
But this quiet corner of Crete is well worth exploring. The northeast, home to the Dikti mountains, is one of the island’s last unspoilt stretches of coastline, and a world away from the luxury resorts that scatter the coast around Elounda, and the 1980s sprawling hotels and apartments that characterise places such as Agios Nikolaos.
After a lazy first day, I set out to discover a good local beach (the one thing Mochlos doesn’t have), and follow a recommendation to Tholos, hidden away 3km from the main road.
It turns out to be an absolute treat of a beach: a long strip of sand that is free of sun loungers and parasols, the only shade thrown by a cluster of tamarind trees sheltering a handful of cars. As I step into the water, only one other couple is swimming. The water is sparklingly clear, shoals of tiny fish whisking through the shallows. The mountains loom to the southern end of the beach past one whitewashed house on the small road that leads over the headland to the north.
The swimming is really only an excuse for over-indulgence. Cretan food is arguably the best in Greece, the island’s diverse landscapes producing everything from mountain herbs, greens and tangy cheese to grassily delicious olive oils, freshly caught fish and crispy pastry snacks, such as spanakopita – golden flaky pastry, stuffed with salty feta and herbs. Best of all, because this area of Crete is off the mainstream tourist trail, even the most spectacularly situated taverna rarely gets overrun.
I head to the village of Mirsini, where a huddle of whitewashed houses clambers up the mountainside and Mochlos is little more than a vague white