Six perfect unsung city breaks in Europe – from Ghent to Naples

09.10.2023 - 16:25 / theguardian.com / London St Pancras

The Netherlands’ second city is a winner for those weary of its more famous (and oversubscribed) rival. Sure, there’s water – it’s Europe’s largest port, after all – with rivers, canals and harbours at every turn. But this sprawling metropolis doesn’t yield its pleasures as easily as Amsterdam, largely because second world war bombing destroyed most of the historic centre. Its pioneering postwar architecture is, however, what makes “Manhattan on the Maas” so fascinating.

Treasures include the 1970s Cube Houses designed by Piet Blom, the landmark cable-stayed Erasmus Bridge, the 1960 retro-futuristic Euromast and eclectic buildings in the leafily landscaped Museumpark. Alongside design museum Het Nieuwe Instituut and the Kunsthal gallery, a must-visit is The Depot, an ambitious €94m bowl-shaped “storage facility” for the city’s art collection, its rooftop cafe boasting panoramic views. Equally compelling is Delfshaven, which escaped bombing, and is now home to waterside pubs, a microbrewery and tucked-away restaurants.

Eat and drink

The imposing Markthal took five years to build and, with nearly 100 vendors, is a great place for anything from a pastel de nata to sushi: skewered tapas at 21 Pinchos are served at the counter with a chilled verdejo. The city’s 180 nationalities mean there’s a diverse food scene: a three-hour self-guided Food Tour takes in six off-the-beaten-track authentic joints, from chips at Dutch institution Bram Ladage to spicy jianbing crepes at Super Crepe in multicultural West-Kruiskade, Puglian snacks at Panzero and Surinamese curry chicken rolls at Chinny.

Up-and-coming neighbourhood Katendrecht is a must for both the Fenix Food Factory, a waterfront craft beer, street food and natural wine destination, and De Matroos En het Meisje (its name “The Sailor & The Girl” references the former red light district). The blind set menu comprises four or five creative courses with, on my visit, memorable dishes likesuch as slow-cooked egg with fennel and grapefruit, smoked tomato tarts, and turbot with girolles. Buzzy Witte de Withstraat is a good bet afterwards for a bar crawl, whether a beer at popular NRC or, just off the main drag, something gin-soaked at Spikizi.

Stay

Around the corner from Witte de Withstraat is the serenely stylish Hotel Âme (doubles from €140), while walking distance from Museumpark is the design-conscious Supernova (doubles from €136). The latest boutique hotel is Morgan & Mees, located across the street from The Depot (doubles from €116).
Get there Direct Eurostar all the way from London St Pancras, taking just 3h 49m.
Stephen Emms

If there was ever a time to visit Naples, it is now. The city is basking in the glory of being crowned Italy’s football league