On a crispy late-September morning under blue skies, the grassy hills of Custer State Park are surely the last place you’d ever expect to find thousands of fans screaming and hollering for their favorite team, whether members be of the bipedal or four-legged sort. With dozens of cowboys and cowgirls herding some 1,400-1,500 grunting and bellowing bison through the verdant terrain and into corrals, South Dakota’s annual Buffalo Roundup has become a huge and thrilling spectator event.
It’s a well-known tale by now of how millions upon millions of the greatest land mammal in our hemisphere roamed for millennia over the Canadian Prairies and U.S. Plains states and beyond, until the Bison bison had been slaughtered for hides and sport and to further decimate the Lakota and other Indian populations whose lives revolved around the hunt. Thankfully, from a low of around a thousand by the late 19th century, the majestic ungulates were brought back from the brink of imminent extinction to number half a million today.
Following vaccinations and checkups, several hundred individuals will be selected from the Roundup to be sold at auction this month in order to keep the herd at a manageable grazing size, and to help build new herds elsewhere.
Normally, buffalo roam the whole 71,000-acres of Custer State Park. But just before Roundup, they are squeezed into a 640-acre zone. Plenty of fans—and there was a record 22,590 of them this year—sleep in their car the night before or begin arriving at 4 a.m. to grab a spot in either the northern or southern viewing areas; all that, even though the show doesn’t kick off until 9:30 a.m. and lasts two hours at most.
Such is its popularity of the Roundup that for their live stream South Dakota Public Broadcasting sets up half a dozen cameras in various hilly sectors, like a TV crew prepared to catch every angle of NFL action. You can watch the delightful play-by-play of their anchors sharing anecdotal tidbits on the SDPB website.
The whole morning is actually quite choreographed—that is, to the extent that one can predict wild animals. In addition to rangers, there are more than a hundred volunteers ensuring a smooth event. Some sixty riders, who had to apply to be selected, include regulars and newcomers, each with their own look and style. You’ll see plenty of glorious mustaches and facial hair and more than a few cowgirl pink touches to some chaps. And not to mention some gorgeous horses.
Riders are divided into red and white teams who fully communicate over the air, just as sports coaching staffs do in the big game. But first, a few veteran administrators give the riders “pre-game” reminders at the corral about making sure that your cinch is tight, that you watch out when a
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