Spring equinox at Loughcrew: waking up to Ireland’s secret rock art

Ireland may be relatively small, but its dramatic coasts, country roads, and historic cities have visitors wishing for more time. To help maximize your trip, we consulted local experts, ranging from food writers to photographers, librarians, and tour guides, for their best bets.

Landscapes as green and lovely as everyone says. Literary giants in Dublin; Titanic history in Belfast. A pint and good craic in a traditional pub. The lure of Celtic legends.

Green fields and hills give Ireland its “Emerald Isle” nickname. But with nearly 2,000 miles of coastline, rivers, and lakes, the island nation is also awash in blue. Rounding out all that unspoiled nature are ancient castles, historic villages, and pubs alive with traditional music. Here’s the best way to experience this colorful corner of Europe.

Get ready for a 30-mile drive that will take you thousands of years back in time. Starting in Killala, on the River Moy estuary, grab your morning cuppa in The Kiosk Café on Market Street, before exploring the fifth-century Round Tower, a 75ft limestone icon, which you might expect Rapunzel’s hair to tumble down from at any minute. Note the doorway set 11 feet above ground — access ladders would have been pulled inside to protect against marauders.

Strapped to a dramatic stretches of coastline, Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route is a wind-battered swirl of churning seas, shattered cliffs, expansive grasslands and long-abandoned castles. Follow it in any direction, and you’ll soon come to appreciate how this landscape became so closely associated with tales of warriors and giants. Home to many of the country’s most iconic and spectacular sites, including the jagged outcrop of basalt known as the Giant’s Causeway, this endlessly surprising route offers drivers more majesty per mile than almost anywhere else in Europe.

Enter the Pernod Ricard “St. Patrick’s Day” sweepstakes by April 30, 2016, for a chance to win one of six grand prizes: each a trip for two to Ireland, including air, three nights’ hotel, and a tour of the Jameson distillery in Dublin.

In an overhaul of its travel advisory system, the U.S. Department of State recently assigned every country in the world a travel safety rating. The safest places are ranked Level 1, while the places that Americans are advised to avoid are considered Level 4:

Travel to Europe is going to get slightly more complicated in 2021. Starting that year, visitors from the U.S. will need to get an ETIAS (European Travel Information and Authorization System) approval before entering countries in the Schengen zone. According to the delegation of the European Union to the U.S., the measure is not a Europe visa, but an authorization that “will enable us to get more comprehensive information from travelers coming from visa-exempt, third-country [nations] arriving at the Schengen external borders.”

Ever wondered what it’s like to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland, the holiday’s own green-hued homeland? Despite my long line of Irish heritage, my family has never been able to answer that question for me. Some said it’s a religious holiday, others claimed it’s a tourist play hijacked by beer companies, but most admitted they had no idea what exactly Irish locals do for the national holiday.

It’s the opposite of a motorway. As I drive into the Cumeengeera Valley, scraggly summer hedgerows slap my wing mirrors. Punky tufts of grass on the boreen work like brushes, scrubbing the car’s undercarriage. The mountains around me make me feel the size a grain of rice in a giant green bowl.

After you’ve taken a Black Taxi tour of the Northern Irish capital and checked out the world famous Titanic Belfast, make your way to the Giant’s Causeway. The only UNESCO World heritage site in Northern Ireland, this 6o-million-year-old rock formation seems straight out of a fantasy novel. And the best part is that you can visit this incredible place for free.

If there’s one adage that sums up Dublin, it’s “big things come in small packages.” The Irish capital covers less than 45 square miles on either side of the River Liffey, but it’s brimming with enough landmarks, history, and character to fill a much larger city. From Irish literary greats such as James Joyce and Oscar Wilde to musical legends such as Bono, Dubliners have had an indelible impact on world culture, and the city promises to do the same for travelers.