Europe's scorching hot summer is showing no signs of cooling down, with Italy facing its warmest weekend of the year so far and heatwave warnings issued in southern France.
05.08.2024 - 14:41 / lonelyplanet.com
Aug 2, 2024 • 8 min read
With its lavish whirl of Hapsburg palaces, neoclassical concert halls, posh coffee houses and galleries stuffed with Old Master paintings, Vienna can seem overwhelmingly grand. So it might come as a surprise to know that with a little careful planning you can see a heck of a lot of the Austrian capital without spending a single cent.
Dodging Vienna's tourist traps and making the most of the Austrian capital on a tight budget is easy when you know how – and we're not talking second-rate experiences here.
Read on for our round-up of 12 top things to see and do for free, from museums showing Klimt masterpieces to bike rides around the Ringstrasse and saunters in baroque palace gardens.
Popping up above the Innere Stadt, Vienna’s crowning glory Stephansdom cathedral – ironically nicknamed Steffl ("Little Stephan") – quite literally stops you dead in your tracks and forces you to look skywards for a glimpse of its 12th-century stonework and dazzling chevron-tiled roof.
While you’ll have to pay to hook onto a guided tour, explore the catacombs or clamber up the south tower, you can get a sense of the scale and majesty of the cathedral for free by visiting the atmospheric interior and smaller altars.
Planning tip: Skip breakfast to be at the cathedral when it opens at 6am. It has a special atmosphere at this early hour and you’ll pretty much have it all to yourself.
MQ Libelle, on the roof terrace of the Leopold Museum, wows with knockout views all the way from the MuseumsQuartier to the Hausberge mountains. The glass structure of the Libelle, (German for "dragonfly"), is an artwork in itself, but there is also an exhibition space for art installations right underneath it called MQ Art Box, which is open 24/7 and you can visit for free. The rooftop area is open daily except for Tuesday and access is via two outdoor lifts on the east side.
For sweeping views, head to the new 360° Ocean Sky, on the 11th floor of a repurposed flak tower. You can stop for a drink, but you don’t have to. The elevator stops next to the entrance to the restaurant, so you can walk the entire platform and enjoy the panorama without entering the venue.
Central Vienna’s backbeat is the sound of Fiaker (horse-drawn carriages) jauntily clip-clopping over cobblestones. Firmly aimed at tourists, even a short spin can be pricey. Instead, get your horse fix at the resplendently baroque Spanish Riding School, where Vienna’s graceful, snow-white Lipizzaner stallions, which used to be bred for the monarchs of the Habsburg court, train and perform. Tickets are like gold dust, but you can see the horses in their stalls for free.
Planning tip: To catch the Lipizzaner briefly in action, visit just before 10am from Tuesday to
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The tonka bean, a wizened-looking South American seed, is beloved for its complex almond-vanilla scent, often appearing as an ingredient in perfumes. Outside the United States, it has also long been utilized by chefs, but studies have indicated that coumarin, a chemical compound in the plant, can cause liver damage in animals, and the Food and Drug Administration banned the bean in commercial foods in 1954. Now, with reports that the minuscule amounts used to impart big flavor are harmless (and the F.D.A. seemingly not particularly interested in enforcing the ban in recent years), tonka is showing up on dessert menus here. Thea Gould, 30, the pastry chef at the daytime luncheonette La Cantine and evening wine bar Sunsets in Bushwick, Brooklyn, was introduced to tonka after the restaurant’s owner received a jar from France, where it’s a widely used ingredient. Gould says the bean is an ideal stand-in for nuts — a common allergen — and infuses it into panna cotta, whipped cream and Pavlova. Ana Castro, 35, the chef and owner of the New Orleans seafood restaurant Acamaya, discovered tonka as a young line cook at Betony, the now-closed Midtown Manhattan restaurant. Entranced by the ingredient’s grassy, stone fruit-like notes, she’s used it to flavor a custardy corn nicuatole, steeped it into roasted candy squash purée and grated it fresh over a lush tres leches cake. And at the Musket Room in New York’s NoLIta, the pastry chef Camari Mick, 30, balances tonka’s richness with acidic citrus like satsuma and bergamot. Over the past year, she’s incorporated it into a silky lemon bavarois and a candy cap mushroom pot de crème and whipped it into ganache for a poached pear belle Hélène. “Some people ask our staff, ‘Isn’t tonka illegal?’” she says. Their answer: Our pastry chef’s got a guy. —
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