I spent the first seven years of my life in the United Kingdom and still have some British terms and phrases in my vocabulary.
21.07.2023 - 07:41 / roughguides.com
Follow Rough Guides writer, Lucy Pierce , as she explores the Bedouins and learns about nomadic life in the Jordanian desert.
“No way, I love my hot showers” Tarek grinned when I asked him if he’d rather be living nomadically in Petra’s caves, as his ancestors had for centuries. Tarek was born in such a cave, but told me how he prefers having electricity and running water in his house – particularly hot water.
I spent a couple of days in Petra and Wadi Rum, uncovering the bedouin culture – a nomadic Arab tribe in the Middle Eastern deserts – from past to present. How has it evolved over the last 40 years? With shiny modern structures seemingly taking over the continent, could a nomadic tribe preserve their heritage?
Jabal Umm ad Dami, the highest mountain in Jordan © Shutterstock
Tarek Abdallah is the nephew of Marguerite van Geldermalsen, the author of Married to a Bedouin, who is now living in New Zealand. On a backpacking trip around the Middle East in her 20s, it was on the steps of the Treasury that she met Mohammed Abdallah, a bedouin shopkeeper in Petra. Tarek was keeping the shop ticking over while she was away. Or as I discovered, watching Youtube videos on his smartphone when there’s a lull.
Marguerite’s story romanticises a life of frugality as a bedouin, as British travellers TE Lawrence – the so-called Lawrence of Arabia – and Wilfred Thesiger did before her. No matter how glorious the desert or Petra was, I didn’t think I could sacrifice my creature comforts, like Marguerite had, for seven years of cave dwelling.
Petra is concealed in a remote valley of the Shara mountains. I walked through the deep canyons, admiring the vivid marbled colourings of iron and copper etched into the cliffs. My excitement built with every corner, as the gorge of the Siq narrowed, towering above me.
Through the curves of the sandstone, I caught my first glimpse of the classical facade of The Treasury. I tried to picture the Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt’s face the day he unearthed this wonder for Westerners in 1812, disguised as an Arab.
Petra Treasury © Jordan Tourism Board
The hubbub of noise echoed as I took in my surroundings. Marvelling at how well intact the structure was, despite an earthquake and an attempted explosion to unearth the supposed gold and riches. My reverie was interrupted by a six-foot tall bedouin with dark features – bristly facial hair and thick kohl eyeliner – wearing a hooded fleece jacket. He was pointing to an outcrop, claiming it was the best view in Petra. He would show me – for a price.
I encountered this friendly familiarity from the bedouins on every corner, whether it was silver jewellery or a donkey ride. I asked my guide, Mohammed, what he thought about their persistence.
I spent the first seven years of my life in the United Kingdom and still have some British terms and phrases in my vocabulary.
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