The best of Haiti: why the time to go is now
21.07.2023 - 08:34
/ roughguides.com
/ Trump
/ Graham Greene
With its natural wonders, revolutionary history and captivating culture – informed by the vodou (voodoo) religion – Haiti is like nowhere else in the Caribbean. Look beyond the trash talk and the misconceptions and you’ll be richly rewarded.
President Trump’s recent comments are just the latest in a long line of slurs directed at Haiti, a fascinating and much-misunderstood nation. There’s no denying the country is poor, but Haiti is rich in other ways: it’s home to vibrant cities, cloud-cloaked mountain citadelles and secluded white-sand beaches. It’s also thrillingly unexplored – go there and you’re likely to have these world-class sights all to yourself.
The recovery process, following the earthquake of 2010 and Hurricane Matthew in 2016, is well underway and in the last year alone huge strides have been made, with new buildings springing up across the capital, Port-au-Prince. Haitian infrastructure can be challenging to negotiate – the technicoloured tap-taps that form the backbone of the country’s public transport system, trundling along unmarked routes, are a case in point. But there are now a number of excellent local tour companies operating too, making it easier than ever to get around.
Still not convinced? Well, here are five reasons why you should re-think Haiti's position on your travel list.
Haiti’s capital is colourful, chaotic and totally intoxicating. Get your bearings in the Champ de Mars, Port-au-Prince’s main square. Here you’ll find the Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien, which tells the story of the country, from the days of the native Amerindians through Spanish and French colonialism to the brutal dictatorships of the recent past.
The city also has a buzzing and resourceful arts scene. In the commune of Croix-des-Bouquets, artists sculpt birds, animals and vodou deities from recycled oil drums. Meanwhile in the neighbourhood of Grand Rue, home to handicrafts hub the Iron Market, an underground collective known as Atis Rezistans craft gritty masterpieces from all manner of debris – even from a few bones.
As you explore the city, look out for “gingerbread houses”. These tumbledown mansions, with their rickety verandahs and yards of elaborate woodwork, are icons of Haitian architecture. The Hotel Oloffson is the most famous of them all, known for its staring role in The Comedians, Graham Greene’s novel about Haiti. Every Thursday night, the hotel plays host to an energetic live show from one of Haiti’s best loved groups, the vodou rock and roots band RAM.
Haitians take huge pride in their history, above all the revolution of 1791–1804, when Haitian slaves rose up to defeat their French colonial masters and proclaim the world’s first black republic. To safeguard their independence and prove