The delights of Dharamsala: discover India’s “Little Tibet”
21.07.2023 - 08:16
/ roughguides.com
Ever since the Dalai Lama and his entourage escaped the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1959 and were granted a new home in the district of Dharamsala, in India’s Himachal Pradesh, the area has been a magnet for travellers and truth-seekers alike.
In fact, rather than the mundane, workaday lower town of Dharamsala itself, it is actually the delightful British hill station of McLeod Ganj above it, around ten kilometres by twisting road and all of 1000m higher in altitude, that has become the big draw as India's very own «Little Tibet».
Many people, including celebrities such as Richard Gere and Uma Thurman, come to India specifically to soak up its Buddhist traditions, yet many more casual travellers end up staying here a lot longer than they originally intended, drawn in by its alluring atmosphere.
Set in the lower reaches of the mighty Himalaya, McLeod Ganj is surrounded by peaceful pine-forested ridges and offers sweeping views down towards Dharamsala from many of its appealing guesthouses and rooftop restaurants.
However, you only truly get to appreciate the magnificence of your surroundings by taking one of the many possible hikes in the surrounding area. Apart from the simple direct shortcut down to Dharamsala, more appealing walks take you through the woods to the nearby villages of Bhagsu and Dharamkot, the former famous for its ancient Shiva temple and a small waterfall. This becomes especially lively during the major yatra (pilgrimage) between late July and the end of August.
Slightly further afield is diminutive but usually peaceful Dal Lake, not to be confused with its more famous namesake in Kashmir. Those with stronger legs and lungs can easily arrange longer treks in the majestic Dhauladhar Range to the north, perhaps going all the way to the atmospheric Hindu temple towns of Chamba and Bharmour via the 4350m-high Indrahar Pass. Numerous travel agencies around town can help you plan one of these more demanding adventures, and also provide guides and equipment to ease your passage.
Triund, Dhauladhar © Anshul Dabla/Shutterstock
Dharamsala has the reputation as the second wettest place in India so choose your time wisely. The autumn months, before the mercury drops but while the days are dry and sunny, are in many ways the best time to visit, although people do come year round. The busiest time is in the late spring and early summer, when hordes escape the pre-monsoon heat on the plains, while the winter is extremely cold and late summer can be very rainy.
Unsurprisingly, as the seat of one of the world's greatest living spiritual leaders, McLeod Ganj is well established as a major centre for meditation, yoga and other esoteric retreats. Both Buddhist and Hindu traditions are amply represented, so