To say the Luc Alphand slope in Chantemerle ends abruptly is an understatement. The piste, graded as a black run, is more like a sheer-drop slide at a giant’s play park, coming to a dramatic halt on the pavement in the middle of town. As I sit in the breakfast room of the Grand Hôtel with a ringside view of skiers barrelling their way down the mountain, wondering whether I’ll be brave enough to join the Luc at some point, I’m all too aware that this dilemma may soon be a thing of the past. Warming temperatures and a lack of snow in the valley mean that the slope, like many around the Alps, needs a lot of artificial snow, using up precious resources.
“There are people who say that skiing is finished — that we have to think of something else to do — but it’s not true,” says Patrick Arnaud, managing director of Serre Chevalier Vallée Briançon, a resort in France’s southern Alps. “Skiing has been possible down to 1,200 metres for the past 80 years but maybe that will move to up to 1,400 metres. We have to accept we may need to stop skiing at the lower levels.”
Serre Chevalier Vallée Briançon is the biggest ski area in the southern Alps, with 155 miles of varied pistes and powder bowls, made up of a string of small valley towns and an interlinked mountain chain. The area stretches from the spa town of Le Monêtier-les-Bains through La Salle les Alpes and my base in Chantemerle to bigger Briançon, known for its UNESCO-inscribed Fortifications of Vauban and its lofty position as France’s highest town. Owned by Compagnie des Alpes, it’s an exemplar of sustainable skiing. It’s operated on 100% renewable energy since 2011 and is aiming for net zero emissions by 2030. An investment of €4m (£3.4m) in solar panels, hydroelectricity and wind turbines has been made in the region over the past six years with the aim to sustainably produce 30% of the energy it needs to operate.
In Briançon, I find shops with a distinctly Italian vibe — it’s only nine miles to the border via the Col d’Izoard pass, after all — while the peeling terracotta and faded raspberry paints of the old town are pure Provence. My guide, Lisa Gibello, sums up the sensibility of the locals: “We’re montagnards for sure,” she says, referring to denizens of the mountains. “But we’re less posh — less Gucci — than people from the northern Alps and we have the laid-back vibe of Mediterraneans.” Above all, says Lisa, locals are sporty. Whether it’s skiing in winter, cycling and kayaking in summer or hiking in autumn, when the leaves of the larch trees turn a beautiful orange — in contrast to the pines of the north — outdoors is where it’s at.
With 80% of Serre Chevalier’s pistes at 2,000 metres and above, and the skiable domain a long north-facing
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With its glittering seas, colorful harbors and beaches filled with primary bright umbrellas, the French Riviera is a visual treat most everywhere you look. For an even more vivid mise en scène, head to the Côte d’Azur in spring, when this ribbon of revered coastline hosts numerous spring festivals, and towns pull out the stops to celebrate a cherished local bloom or fruit.
‘You should be very proud,” said Chemmy Alcott, as my face smacked into thick snow for the third time and my goggles began to steam up with the exertion of constantly righting myself. “You’re one of the first 100 people to come through here this season. You’re flattening the trail, making it easier for everyone else.”
Hot, sticky and aching from two hours of hiking steep jungle trails, it’s a relief to leap off the lava rock ledge and feel the massaging effect of the churning ocean as I enter the water below.
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