Four European countries now have the world’s most powerful passports.
22.12.2023 - 21:04 / forbes.com
The skill of making a fine Cognac requires blending batches from different years and different vineyards to produce a consistent house style. But what if one year a single vineyard produces a special Cognac that is a luxury all on its own — like a vintage Champagne? This is what Cellar Master Eric Forget of HINE has explored with the Domaines Bonneuil collection. And the results will have you looking for a red stag on your next Cognac label.
“What makes the collection unique is we’re showcasing a single unblended harvest from our family-owned first growth vineyard located in Grande Champagne, Cognac’s most desired growing region,” says Forget. “What I enjoy most about this line is our ability to showcase the terroir and specificity of the vintage so transparently.”
HINE’s history in Cognac starts over 250 years ago in Dorset, England when Thomas Hine left his home and came to Jarnac, France and married into a family with a Cognac house on the banks of the Charente river. He wound up given the house both his name and it’s symbol: a stag said to be a good luck symbol from back in Dorset. While today a few major players dominate most Cognac sales in the U.S., HINE is a small producer of exceptional quality and one of the few to foray into single vineyard-single vintage offerings.
Five vintages of Domaines Bonneuil have been released: 2005, 2006, 2008, 2010 and 2012. And while a single vineyard and vintage would seem to make a Cellar Master’s job much easier, Forget emphasizes a great deal of work still goes into each label. “A great cognac is first and foremost a great white wine, so it all starts in the vineyard,” says Forget. “I’m aiming to achieve good maturity and sugar content while simultaneously maintaining a high acidity — the precursors of the final bouquet and richness of the cognac. Once harvested, the grapes are fermented and then distilled on the lees twice in copper pot stills.”
After distillation Forget ages the eau-de-vie in lightly toasted oak barrels. “It offers round, velvety and soft tannins which produce a fine, delicate, floral, elegant, smooth and easy to drink cognac,” says Forget. “We never want the wood to overpower or mask the fruit. Our goal is to honor the terroir and enhance the beautiful aromatics and flavors of our fruit throughout the aging process.”
Each vintage in the Domaines Bonneuil series is aged for ten years. And while Forget feels each shares the HINE hallmarks of “delicacy, vivacity and finesse” he’s not shy about picking his favorite, saying “The 2010 for it’s great balance. Powerful yet elegant. Maturity and freshness combined and great complexity.”
My own tasting concurs with this. The 2010 is the best intro to the series and a well-centered benchmark to then
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