The subtropical river system just 30 minutes from Buenos Aires
21.07.2023 - 08:45
/ roughguides.com
/ Belle Epoque
Just outside Buenos Aires, Argentina is one of South America ’s most unexpected landscapes – the Paraná Delta. Part of the continent’s second largest river system, it is accessed via a Victorian-style toy train and the town of Tigre, an idiosyncratic cross between England’s Henley-on-Thames and Italy’s Venice.
With a population of some 12.5 million, Buenos Aires can sometimes feel oppressively urban, hectic and traffic-choked, especially on the stiflingly hot days of January and February. Yet barely 35km northwest of the city centre is a subtropical tangle of tea-coloured waterways and lush islands reminiscent of the Amazon or the Everglades.
The Paraná Delta has long been a popular summer bolthole for porteños (residents of Buenos Aires), who come to sunbathe, swim and eat asados (copious beef-heavy barbecues) at beach resorts accessible only by boat.
© Diego Grandi/Shutterstock
The gateway to the delta is the island-town of Tigre: imagine a cross between an undeveloped Venice and a subtropical Henley-on-Thames, and you’re halfway there. Bounded on all sides by the Luján, Reconquista and Tigre rivers, it is named after the jaguars – which were known locally as tigres – that once roamed here.
A hundred years ago Tigre was one of the most glamorous destinations in South America, primarily thanks to the Tigre Club, Argentina’s first casino, housed in an opulent mansion dripping with French chandeliers, Venetian mirrors, and marble staircases.
Local and international celebrities – from the Prince of Wales to Italian opera singer Enrico Caruso – flocked here to gamble and carouse. British-style rowing, boating and social clubs lined the river banks and there was a packed calendar of races and regattas.
Wealthy porteños built second homes in Tigre itself or country retreats on the myriad islands that dot the delta. Smugglers, bandits and outlaws, meanwhile, holed up deeper into the wilderness, away from prying eyes.
The 1930s, however, heralded the start of Tigre’s decline. In 1933 the casino closed, Buenos Aires’ fashionable set moved off to destinations like the seaside resort of Mar del Plata, and the town’s glamorous buildings fell into disrepair. Fruit and timber exports from the small port and a trickle of day-trippers barely kept the town ticking over.
But in recent years Tigre has undergone something of a renaissance. The Tigre Club has been turned into an art gallery, the promenades that line the rivers have been revamped, its mock-Tudor and Belle Époque buildings have been restored, and tourists have returned.
Club de Regatas La Marina, Tigre © Diego Grandi/Shutterstock
One of the great pleasures of Tigre is the journey from Buenos Aires. Although you can catch a commuter train, most travellers opt