The butcher was the only place in the Auvergne village of Courpière that showed any signs of life when I visited on an August afternoon. A handful of half-timbered houses and shuttered windows, this sleepy little place was allegedly once home to one of the world's most famous fashion designers: Coco, née Gabrielle, Chanel. Tracking down anything concrete was proving difficult, however, and records of her early life were no more substantial than a whiff of her No. 5 in the breeze.
The lack of clarity about where Chanel came from doesn't stop people thinking they know who she was. Part of this is due to media misrepresentation. Feuds with rival designers (thanks to the Broadway musical, Coco, starring Katharine Hepburn). Rumours that her older sister Julia took her own life, and that Julia's son André was in fact Coco Chanel's illegitimate child. Numerous reports of her having been a Nazi collaborator.
Google "Chanel" and you'll be confronted with 50 different versions of her life. Without evidence for any of the above claims, how do we know which is the truth?
"I think her home was down by the campsite," said one customer in the Courpière butcher shop.
"No, it was the house that belongs to the psychiatrist," said another with confidence.
"Ah bon, Coco Chanel lived here?!" said the butcher herself in surprise.
It had been like this everywhere I went, a series of lost Auvergnian towns in an area of central France known as la diagonale du vide (the empty diagonal), far from the typical tourist track. Towns like Mont-Dore, Brive-la-Gaillarde, Moulins, Thiers. Each delivered no more information than I'd been able to piece together online. Even the spa city of Vichy, where Chanel had worked as a water girl, serving glasses of Vichy's famous sulphurous waters to visitors on retreat, gave me nothing. The little black dress that she's credited with inventing may have permeated couture worldwide; the ubiquitous signature scent, Chanel No. 5, available in every airport duty-free and cruise liner boutique – but until Gabrielle Chanel became Coco, she seemed to have left barely a footprint.
It's particularly difficult to unpick as Chanel notoriously told many different stories to different journalists who interviewed her during the course of her life, and those stories, especially those relating to her childhood, often didn't add up. But as the first major exhibition of Chanel's work in the UK (Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto) opens at the V&A museum on 16 September 2023, it's a reminder that the line between art and artist is often inseparable.
"Chanel's aesthetic may be black and white, but her life is filled with shades of grey," said Justine Picardie, an author, fashion writer and former
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An iconic cornerstone of London’s landscape, the city’s Old War Office building is set to settle into a brand-new identity this month. Sold to the Hinduja group in 2016, the building is opening its doors to the public once again, this time revamped into the Raffles London at The OWO. This will be Raffles Hotels & Resorts’ first location in the United Kingdom. Rаffles’ hotels are known for bringing together impeccable hospitality, design, and exclusive environments, and The OWO is no exception. Storytelling and preservation are the focus here, and Raffles properties allow guests to spend their trip basking in history.
Kia Karjalainen and her sister were vacationing in Greece when things took an unexpected turn. “We were in our hotel room, and I suddenly said to my sister, ‘It really, really smells of smoke. Is something burning?’”
As the world’s major fashion weeks take place this month, we ask five boutique-brand designers to open their ‘little black books’ and reveal some of their much-loved addresses in their favourite places around the world.
When I reach Galaha in Sri Lanka’s central highlands, the sun is high in the sky and the streets are clouded with dust. Tuk-tuks rattle around women in red saris flecked with gold, narrowly missing the one-eyed dog sleeping in the road. Amid the honking and coconut selling, I hear a familiar sound — Beethoven’s Für Elise — moving closer, crackling from a tuk-tuk selling fish buns, and bringing with it the smell of freshly baked bread.
On May 29th, 1953, legendary mountain climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest by navigating the extreme terrain of Mount Everest, a feat no human had ever achieved. To celebrate this monumental accomplishment, the Chinese watch brand that’s racked up more awards than many of its Swiss competitors, CIGA Design, has just released the U Mount Everest Homage Edition watch to celebrate this anniversary and showcase what is, arguably, the pinnacle (pun intended) of mechanical watchmaking: the central tourbillon.
Ho Chi Minh City is a vibrant and exciting city with a lot to offer visitors. It is the largest city in Vietnam and has a rich history, diverse culture, and delicious food. Some of the top things to do in Ho Chi Minh City include visiting the War Remnants Museum, exploring the city’s French colonial architecture, taking a walk through Ben Thanh Market, and sampling the city’s delicious street food. Ho Chi Minh City is also a relatively affordable city, making it a great value for travelers. Whether you’re interested in history, culture, food, or shopping, you’re sure to find something to love. These Ho Chi Minh City hotels put you close to everything.
From St Ives station, there’s a view of sand, palms and, across misty blue water, a lighthouse on a rocky island. Virginia Woolf and her sister, artist Vanessa Bell, saw this view as children from the house their father rented. It later featured in Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse, set in the Hebrides but clearly inspired by St Ives. She describes “the great plateful of blue water” and “hoary Lighthouse, distant, austere in the midst”. Images have lingered ever since I read it years ago at college, and my pub walk is something of a literary pilgrimage.
One of the fruits of getting on a train is that it makes me want to chat. So instead of gazing at Kent as we proceed to Paris from London, I talk to my neighbour. Martha grew up in San Francisco, studied in Oregon, and puts syrup on everything. When we part ways on the concourse of Gare du Nord – she to lunch with a friend from Wisconsin, me to amble around before continuing towards Turkey – she says the best things about the US are Taylor Swift and meatloaf. It’s good to talk.