Kia Karjalainen and her sister were vacationing in Greece when things took an unexpected turn. “We were in our hotel room, and I suddenly said to my sister, ‘It really, really smells of smoke. Is something burning?’”
12.09.2023 - 18:03 / lonelyplanet.com
The small island of Ikaria, with its 164km (102 miles) of undulating coastline, sits serenely in the midst of the Northern Aegean islands, just a hop from the much larger Samos.
It’s a rural, relaxed kind of place, with clear, cerulean waters and craggy central mountains blanketed in forests and slashed by rocky gorges – a perfect mix of seaside and interior village life.
Named after the mythical Icarus, said to have crashed here after flying with wax wings too close to the sun, Ikaria is also honored as the birthplace of Dionysos, the god of wine. And the islanders famously throw wild parties called panagyria on saints’ days, with a cornucopia of food, wine and traditional dancing.
A visit to this lesser-known haven is a chance to enjoy Ikaria's serenity and the locals' attitude to life; their active Mediterranean lifestyle and healthy herb-enriched diet results in extraordinary longevity – it’s one of the world’s famed Blue Zones and 1 in 3 people live into their 90s.
Ikaria gets busiest in the summer when both Greek and international visitors come for the majority of the panagyria, plus beachside lounging – crowds tend to peak in August. But spring and autumn are tops for hiking the island’s trails when the temperatures are cooler, and spring shines with flowers blooming across the hills. Winter sees the island retreat into hibernation but offers a better chance to spend time with locals and explore in deep peace, plus you’ll save on accommodation (though some places close in the off-season).
If you’re short on time, you’ll be best served having one beach day (check out Seychelles or Nas, for example) and one mountain day (around Rahes), just to get an initial taste of island life. But ideally, you'll spend longer than a few days on the island – the key to Ikarian pleasure is taking your time.
It’s easy to explore several different coasts with their excellent beaches over multiple days and hike rugged trails up into and around mountain villages. A week is ideal to get a solid sense of life on Ikaria and anything more is pure bliss.
If you are staying longer, consider taking a multi-day Greek-language course with the Ikarian Centre in Arethousa, where you're more likely to hear the sound of goat bells than motorbikes. You can also go on a hiking tour with them, or book in for a guided nature walk with Ikarian Footprints, run by super knowledgeable Lefteris Trikiriotis.
Despite its relatively remote location, Ikaria is well-served by a small airport with flights to/from Athens, and it also sits at a crossing of busy ferry routes leading to the mainland ports of Piraeus (via the Cyclades) and Kavala in the north, as well as to the Dodecanese Islands. Its two ports, Evdilos and Agios Kirykos, are quite far
Kia Karjalainen and her sister were vacationing in Greece when things took an unexpected turn. “We were in our hotel room, and I suddenly said to my sister, ‘It really, really smells of smoke. Is something burning?’”
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