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For an authentic taste of Greece, sail aboard a supply boat
08.09.2023 - 17:15 / nationalgeographic.com
When planning a 2020 sailing trip in Greece, Bettina Trittmann knew she wanted a cruise that offered less of a carbon footprint than other cruise ships did.
The 57-year-old German mediator booked a week-long unconventional sailing tour around a few of Greece’s islands with Aegean Cargo Sailing, a social cooperative that blends sustainable cargo shipping with cultural tourism.
During summer, travelers can join Loucas Gourtsoyannis, the 77-year-old captain, on his deliveries around the Greek archipelago to meet producers and sample their wares: rare goat cheese, aromatic island honey, or freshly picked herbs. In between errands, guests visit museums, trek ancient walking trails, and enjoy dips in emerald waters.
“I found the trip to be a very personal experience in every regard,” Trittmann says. She joined again the following year.
Aegean Cargo Sailing is part of a growing, zero-emission cargo sailing movement that includes projects such as Blue Schooner, Tres Hombres, and Avontuur. Using both traditional sailing methods (wind, tides) and modern ones (electric or solar powered motors), these crafts provide an alternative to industrial, fossil fuel-powered shipping. Cargo ships move around 90 percent of the world’s trade, contributing to three percent of all greenhouse gas emissions.
Gourtsoyannis says preserving the work of small-scale farmers helps to safeguard Greek biodiversity and culture. “By supporting them, we improve their quality of life and encourage [farmers and visitors] to return to these lands,” he says. “They will be better, and society will be better.”
Here’s how travelers can experience this newer way to explore Greece’s agricultural and gastronomical revival.
On Kea, a small Cycladic island just an hour by ferry from Athens, 27 cows graze the pastures owned by John and Alexandro Mikoniatis. After spending a decade on mainland Greece, the two brothers returned to Kea in 2018 to work and expand their parents’ farm.
The siblings transform milk from their free-range cows, sheep, and goats into rich regional cheeses. They include malaka, a soft sheep cheese, and kopanisti, a spicy Protected Designation of Origin cheese for the Cycladic Islands.
“With such raw material, it’s impossible not to make a good final product,” says 32-year-old John.
Due to several decades of economic woes and a decline in traditional agriculture, rural Greek islands emptied as young people left for better opportunities. For example, Santorini was once a vital tomato production center—today, only a museum and a few farmers are left.
(Explore 3,000-year-old hiking trails on this remarkable Greek island.)
As faster passenger ferries took to the Aegean Sea, direct routes to lesser known islands were severed, making
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