The ultimate guide to the neighborhoods of Buenos Aires

16.08.2024 - 15:07 / lonelyplanet.com

Aug 15, 2024 • 6 min read

Argentina's capital is a vibrant, buzzing metropolis that storms the senses and quickly gets under your skin, but there's more to Buenos Aires than swanky Recoleta and fashionable Palermo. This is a city to discover slowly, roaming from district to district to soak up the vibe.

It can be hard to know where to begin in this sprawling city, but there's at least one neighborhood that's a perfect match for your travel tastes. Buenos Aires is officially divided into 48 barrios, and each has a distinctive atmosphere and personality. Getting from barrio to barrio is easy by bus, subway or taxi.

Spending time in different areas of Buenos Aires offers a big payoff, as the city’s true character is slowly revealed. Here's the inside track on where to head for daytime sightseeing and where to go to experience Buenos Aires’ legendary restaurants and nightlife.

Buenos Aires’ largest neighborhood is Palermo, a fashionable district known for its shops, restaurants and lively nightlife, where locals come to keep up with the latest trends. It's an excellent option for those who want to be close to the action, with plenty of accommodation options ranging from pocket-friendly hostels to cool boutique hotels. 

Almost everyone who comes to Buenos Aires spends time in Palermo, and the neighborhood is subdivided into several smaller communities. To the north of Avenida Juan B Justo is Palermo Hollywood, an area full of music venues, media companies, and cafes where media types come to sip flat whites.

To the south is Palermo Soho, an area packed with boutiques, cocktail bars and restaurants. For some of the city’s best steak, try Parilla Don Julio at Guatemala 4691. The Subte (subway) runs to the city center from Plaza Italia and to the east are several large, family-friendly parks, the respected MALBA art museum and the Museo Evita, a museum dedicated to Argentinian icon Evita Perón. 

Spend time in swish Recoleta and you'll quickly understand why Buenos Aires is sometimes called the Paris of the South. Stroll the streets of this upmarket neighborhood and gawp at the French-influenced architecture of grand mansions such as Palacio Duhau (now a swanky hotel), many of them built by wealthy cattle ranch owners in the early 20th century when Buenos Aires was one of the richest cities in the world. Avenida Alvear is a good place to start.

A day in this neighborhood wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the neighborhood's magnificent cemetery – it sounds macabre, but admiring the elegant tombs is one of the best free things to do in Buenos Aires. Be sure to stop for an ice cream at Persicco or Rapanui.

San Telmo’s history can be seen in the crumbling mansions of the city’s early residents, which by the late 19th