Ask any Barcelona local where they would prefer to own a second home and one of the most frequent answers will no doubt be l’Empordà. If you have never heard of this under-the-radar part of Catalonia, you are not alone.
If you have been to Catalonia, you have probably visited buzzy Barcelona or the Costa Brava, the dreamy coastline dotted with aquamarine coves that stretches from just north of Barcelona to the French border. But what about l’Empordà? Idyllically set between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, parts of this region are just a 90-minute drive from central Barcelona. And although the Costa Brava technically forms part of l’Empordà, the name is often used to refer to the inland rather than the coast.
While the seaside towns of the costa are either teeming with tourists in the summer months or all but deserted in the wintertime, the inland offers a slower, more balanced pace of life. Known for its medieval villages, apple orchards, vineyards, and artisanal ceramics, l’Empordà is also home to the fascinating city of Girona, more fine-dining restaurants than you can shake a breadstick at, and countless ancient farmhouses-turned-luxury homes, many of which are owned by members of the Barcelona elite.
"Homes of this caliber are not usually available to rent, and certainly not through the usual channels," comments Pablo Rovira, the founder of VIU Empordà, a high-end vacation rental company that manages a carefully curated selection of luxury homes in l’Empordà.
VIU Empordà’s portfolio ranges from Mas Antic, a rustic, but beautifully preserved, 16th-century farmhouse, to Casa Terra, a brand-new, futuristic villa with an infinity pool and show-stopping views of the surrounding countryside. For families or groups of friends, Casa Riera offers the best of both worlds, split across a spacious main house with two bedrooms, and a smaller guest house built on a property that also boasts a lush garden and swimming pool. The restored farmhouse blends original details like stone floors and curved staircases with bold, contemporary furnishings and artworks.
As Rovira explains, his company offers more than just accommodation, it also works with an impressive lineup of local experts who provide experiences that are not available to the average traveler. As part of a stay with VIU Empordà, you may opt to take a private guided e-bike tour through the region’s rolling green valleys and exquisitely preserved ancient villages, or have your lunch served among the vines in a local vineyard. Or why not arrange for local chef Iolanda Bustos, author of "Cocinar con Flores" (Cook with Flowers) to bring seasonal blooms and herbs from her garden, and rice from the rice paddies in the nearby town of Pals, and prepare a
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