Once war-torn, now sublime, Vietnam is long, lovely and languorous.
21.07.2023 - 08:13 / roughguides.com
If you want to take a leisurely tour of the coastline between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi , the night train is the best way: you’ll travel as you sleep, leaving days free for exploring, and save money on hotel bills. Join Rough Guides writer Heidi Fuller-Love on her Vietnam railways adventure.
Known as the Reunification Express, Vietnam’s north-south line was built by the French when the region was part of French Indochina. Badly damaged by constant bomb attacks during the Vietnam War, it reopened in 1975 after the fall of Ho Chi Minh City, then known as Saigon – and now I'm using it to navigate Vietnam's coastal towns.
In Ho Chi Minh I head for the backpacker district, Pham Ngu Lao, and buy my ticket to Nha Trang from a travel agent, making sure they don’t charge me for a soft-sleeper and then book a hard one – a popular scam, apparently. In backstreets near Pham Ngu Lao I stock up on snacks for my trip: deep fried Nem Ran rolls stuffed with pork, yam and crab; Goi Cuon rice paper rolls bursting at the seams with shrimp, herbs and vermicelli, and a rice flour pancake Banh Xeo filled with pork, shrimps, and bean sprouts.
Nha Trang © HelloRF Zcool/Shutterstock
A few minutes before midnight I’m battling with other passengers to board the battered night train. Fellow travellers had advised me to book the bottom bunk of a soft sleeper and I’m glad that I have – not only because the soft sleeper has less bunks, which means more space, but because the it also has a mattress (albeit pancake-thin), whereas the hard sleeper berths are literally hard wooden planks.
As a solo female traveller, the prospect of a sleeping in a cramped four-bed cabin with total strangers is a little daunting, so it’s a relief when I find myself sharing with a friendly Vietnamese couple, the woman clad in the traditional ankle-length tunic and loose-fitting trousers known as ao dai. Rocked to sleep by the noisy click-clack of narrow gauge rails, I wake at 7am, just in time to stumble off the train at Nha Trang.
Vietnam’s most popular resort town ever since US soldiers came here to chill out during the war, Nha Trang is backed by mountains, borders a wide sandy bay and bursts to the brim with backpackers.
Along Tran Phu Street I discover the quirky little Yersin Museum filled with artefacts that once belonged to this Swiss-French doctor who discovered the plague bacillus here in 1894, and then toiling up 150 steps in tropical heat, I pay homage to the Long Son pagoda’s skyscraper-high white Buddha, built to commemorate monks who died demonstrating against the Diem government.
© wawri/Shutterstock
Two days and plenty of stray sand later I head for Nha Trang’s train station for the next leg of my trip: I’m heading to Hué.
Once again there’s
Once war-torn, now sublime, Vietnam is long, lovely and languorous.
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