The Yorkshire Three Peaks is a popular hike in England's Yorkshire Dales National Park. Thousands of people travel each year to take on the Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent, and Whernside mountains — a hike that covers 24 miles.
12.02.2024 - 12:07 / theguardian.com / David Hockney
All Hallows Church in the village of Goodmanham is where the conversion of King Edwin of Northumbria’s kingdom to Christianity began in 627. Edwin had already embraced the new religion in nearby York, and to seal the deal the pagan temple that stood at Goodmanham was destroyed by his high priest, Coifi. This was a symbolic moment in the spread of Christianity in north-east England.
Matters spiritual often crop up along this walk, which takes in a holy well where people leave offerings to this day, and allows you to sample brews named after pagan witches and their victims. From the car park in Goodmanham, I turn left for the centre of this pretty East Yorkshire village, whose fine brick houses and whitewashed cottages surround the 12th-century church. The Goodmanham Arms stands on the corner, but I resist temptation for now and stop by the church to take in the story of Edwin and Goodmanham, told in stained glass.
Striding uphill out of the village, I follow signs to the Wolds Way to the right. Beneath cloud-streaked blue skies, it is nose-tinglingly cold with a veil of frost underfoot. The whirring blades of two wind turbines on the ridgeline ahead create flickering shadows on the hillside. Here I get my first proper glimpse of the Yorkshire Wolds, where the last ice age carved deep valleys between undulating chalk hills. It’s an area of wild, big-skied beauty that inspired artist David Hockney. The 79-mile Wolds Way runs through it and my walk will take in two sections.
I descend to the track bed of an old railway, a 10-mile trail between Market Weighton and Beverley – the Hudson Way – but not before a brief diversion to Rifle Butts Quarry, a first world war rifle range that’s now a tiny nature reserve, home to chalk-loving wildflowers and butterflies in summer. On the quarry face the layered geology of millennia is exposed, with a useful information board to help you tell your Cretaceous from your Triassic.
The Hudson Way was named for George Hudson, the 19th-century “railway king” whose wealth enabled him to buy the Londesborough Hall Estate (which I will pass a bit later), though his dubious financial dealings led him to jail and penury.
The gurgling waters of Mill Beck glint through the trees edging the track where moss envelops decaying branches and the brick vestiges of railway infrastructure. Chaffinches and song thrushes sing sweetly, their trilling punctuated by the coarse calls of rooks and jackdaws.
Fluttering ribbons catch my eye on a tree besides St Helen’s Well, one of four springs in the area named after the mother of Constantine the Great, who was declared caesar in York in AD306, after the death of his father, Constantius. A hillside spring cascades through an arch into a triangular
The Yorkshire Three Peaks is a popular hike in England's Yorkshire Dales National Park. Thousands of people travel each year to take on the Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent, and Whernside mountains — a hike that covers 24 miles.
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