Why Belize is better for scuba diving than the Great Barrier Reef

22.05.2024 - 15:47 / lonelyplanet.com

It’s one thing to know lobsters can be blue. It’s another thing to see one up close with its sapphire shell, claws, legs and antennae sprawling in every direction. I watched it scurry across the sandy floor 18m (60ft) beneath sea level and reminded myself to breathe in, breathe out calmly, just as my divemaster taught me. This was not the sad brown crustacean I’d seen trapped in dirty tanks at a certain chain restaurant; this was ocean life at its purest. This was Belize .

Most experienced divers go to Belize on a mission to explore its Great Blue Hole, a massive sinkhole in the Caribbean Sea stretching 300m (984ft) across and 125m (410ft) deep. You can see it from space, and inside it’s filled with caves and stalactites to thrill the bravest underwater adventurers. Meanwhile, I started my training in a pool in midtown Manhattan, where the scariest thing floating by was a used bandage.

So I might not be the Great Blue Hole’s target audience, but I still wanted to squeeze in a dive somewhere to use the open-water certification I got in 2019, right before a global pandemic crushed my dive trip dreams. Travel Belize took me to Silk Caye, an island and reserve off the coast of Placencia , where snorkelers can also enjoy its shallower waters while divers get their scuba on.

I dove in with low expectations and was promptly greeted by a (harmless!) nurse shark. In just one dive, I saw several more of these sharks, plus lionfish, groupers galore, angelfish, barracuda and, yes, the afforementioned lobster. The highlight, however, were the loggerhead sea turtles that swam next us while snorkeling; one got so close, its fin brushed my arm! I was amazed. I never thought I’d have the privilege of getting this intimate with marine life.

I went to Belize for a range of active experiences on land – ziplining through treetops, horseback riding to Xunantunich archaeological site and biking through Hopkins village – but I wanted to squeeze in a dive. As a newbie, I haven’t had the opportunity to dive in many destinations, especially diver favorites like Thailand, the Galápagos, the Maldives, Indonesia, the list goes on. But a year before I made it to Belize, I crossed the number-one spot off my bucket list: the world-famous Great Barrier Reef. I started in Sydney and backpacked up Australia’s East Coast, ending in Cairns for a week. I lived on a boat for several days diving up to four times daily alongside guides for peace of mind.

With their expertise, I quickly got back into the swing of things – BCD on, check the oxygen level, adjust buoyancy, calculate a safety stop – after being out of practice. Still, I struggled. I attempted one night dive, but my gear wasn’t fitted properly and, in combination with the