Visitors to Scotland will usually land in either Glasgow or Edinburgh, or enter the country from England in the south and make a beeline for these cities or the Highlands. We have all heard about the Isle of Skye, the island distilleries and the majesty of Edinburgh castle. But just south of all these famous Scottish wonders you’ll find landscapes, castles, forests and experiences to rival anything further north.
And what’s more, you’ll be able to enjoy it all without the crowds and hordes that descend upon these northern regions, particularly in high season.
Scotland’s longest hiking route, the Southern Upland Way is a coast-to-coast trail covering forests, mountains, cliffs and lakes. The whole thing runs from Portpatrick in the southwest to Cocksburnpath in the east. At 344km (214 miles) long, it can be tackled as part of a major trip, or a short section attempted at a more leisurely pace. The first half of the route – through Dumfries and Galloway – is gorgeous with varied landscapes and trail-types, and lots to see, do, eat and drink along the way.
The route starts in Portpatrick, a small, picturesque harbor town on the southwest tip of Scotland. The first part of the trail travels along the coast, up and down steep steps and paths on the edge of cliffs, past numerous little coves and caves and through sheep and cow fields. There are stunning views, and on clear days you can see as far as Ireland. There’s plenty of seating dotted along the trail to enjoy the views when you want (and probably need!) to rest your legs. Keep in mind some of the longer sections of the trail will mean you need to bring a packed lunch, so always plan ahead.
The section of the trail that goes through Galloway Forest Park is the most atmospheric, and easily this writer's favorite. It takes you through moss-covered, loud, colorful, leaf-strewn ancient forest. The trail winds alongside rivers, over crumbling stone walls and past lakes. You’ll spot oaks, beeches, hazel trees, holly, different types of mushrooms and berries, and if you’re lucky you might spot buzzards and herons overhead.
There are certain sections of the hike that will also be of interest to anyone fascinated by the history of the region and indeed of Scotland. Bruce’s stone, on the northern edge of Loch Trool, commemorates the Battle of Glen Trool (1307). Robert the Bruce was hiding in the area, and the English troops came down the narrow path along the southern edge of the lake looking for him. The King of Scotland then watched from the opposite shore as his own men ambushed the English from above with heavy stones.
Other places of interest to history buffs along the route include the ruins of the 13th-century (haunted) Sanquhar Castle, the Museum of Lead
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