Z Towns — An Offbeat European Road Trip

03.09.2023 - 15:19 / forbes.com

Looking for an offbeat Euro road trip this fall that doesn’t involve hordes of other travelers, outrageous prices, and had-it-up-to-here-with-tourism locals?

The overland journey between Zagreb and Zadar in northern Croatia might be just the thing that feeds your appetite for Europe without the indigestion (a.k.a. overcrowding and overpricing) that plagues popular destinations like Venice, Barcelona and Prague.

It’s not a long drive: Less 200 miles (300 km) via the Croatian wine country, two awesome national parks, and a spectacular bridge before reaching the gorgeous Adriatic coast.

While you can start the road trip at either end, the best jumping off spot is Croatian capital and a Franjo Tuđman International Airport that welcomes direct flights from Istanbul, London, Paris, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and other European air hubs.

The rental car kiosks are a short walking distance outside the terminal. There’s a lot of choice including well-known global brands like Enterprise and Hertz.

As an example, current Enterprise rates for a one-week one-way rental between Zagreb and Zadar (minus taxes, insurance, and fees) are US$291 for a compact car, US$323 for a small SUV, and US$388 for a station wagon. All of them stick shifts, of course, because automatics are still rare in Europe.

Croatia boasts plenty of gas stations. They tend to be self-service but not pay-at-the-pump. You have to go inside the shop to pay with cash or credit card. Check out current road conditions and gas prices on the Croatian Auto Club (HAK) website.

With the Dalmatian Coast such a star attraction, travelers tend to bypass much of inland Croatia. That’s a huge mistake, because Zagreb is one of Europe’s most underrated capital cities.

What’s the vibe? It’s kind of a mini Vienna, an old Austro-Hungarian Empire regional capital with plenty of vintage architecture, lively squares and pedestrian precincts, and lots of green space.

Zagreb offers the usual array of modern, Western-style chain hotels (Hilton, Sheraton, Westin). But nothing beats the elegant Esplanade for romance, history, and sheer class. Founded in 1925 as a stopover on the original Orient Express route, the Art Nouveau landmark is totally modernized and located within walking distance of most of the places in Zagreb you’ll want to visit.

With its narrow cobblestone streets, photogenic St. Mark’s Church and panoramic views, the ancient Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is the city’s main attraction. Ponder mementoes of love lost at the original Museum of Broken Relationships and flit across the street to the Croatian Museum of Naive Art and its incredible collection of Yugoslavia communist-era paintings with subtle anti-government elements.

After dark, attend an opera or musical