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When December rolls around in Barcelona, lights are going up, market stalls are being assembled, and someone is hiding a mischief-making figurine in the nativity scene. Colorful displays are hung in the historic center’s ancient alleys and the Passeig de Grácia promenade transforms into a river of twinkle lights, leading pedestrians to the evening holiday light show projected on the mesmerizing façade of Gaudí’s Casa Batlló.
Christmas is a very special time to be in Barcelona, a city that never shies away from an opportunity to celebrate a holiday with flair, honoring tradition with a hefty dose of spectacle on the side. Here are some things to expect, and tips for finding the best holiday markets and feasts, to get you in the mood for the Christmas season in Barcelona.
It’s safe to say that nobody does Christmas quite like the Catalans and their iconic caganer. You’ll see the character on souvenir shelves throughout the year, but Christmas is his time to shine. The “pooper,” as is the literal translation of his name, is a traditional figurine that is hidden in Catalan nativity scenes. While it might be shocking to newcomers in Barcelona, the caganer is a beloved tradition amongst Catalans who see his presence as a sign of good luck and a symbol of fertility. At Christmas markets, you will find caganers sold everywhere, as well as his political and pop-culture counterparts from which no one’s likeness is safe. From presidents and artists to Disney princesses, and anime characters, the diversity will surprise you.
As you peruse Barcelona’s Christmas markets, you can’t miss the wide-smiley and bright red nose of this charming little log. The Tio de Nadal is the traditional Catalan Christmas log that is placed under every tree. Children feed the log and cover it with a blanket to keep it warm until Christmas Day, when it is time for Tió to keep up his end of the bargain and poop out their presents. Yes, even the logs poop in Barcelona. However, in order to get the presents, the children must hit the log with sticks and sing a song to help him produce the gifts. This happy little log is also called “Caga Tió”, meaning "Poo Log".
From sweets to hearty winter dishes, there are a few different meals and treats foodies can seek out on a Christmas trip in Barcelona. The easiest to pick up, which you’ll also be able to buy any time of year, is torró. The traditional nougat bar is made using honey and almonds, but it also comes in different flavors in both hard and soft nougat varieties. Head to one of the multiple locations of Vicens spread throughout the city and you might be able to score a free sample.
For a filling hot dish, look for a traditional Catalan restaurant serving escudella.
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