With Christmas markets in full swing and a skyline of baroque spires and domes guiding the eye to snow-frosted mountains, Salzburg is the most festive of cities. Travellers who stroll around its medieval streets during winter will glimpse trees glistening with fairy lights, hear the angelic voices of carollers singing Silent Night (a carol whose first ever performance was in the city) and catch the alluring smells of gingerbread and glühwein (mulled wine) in the air. Beyond the city there’s the beauty of the Alps, best enjoyed on skis or from a horse-drawn sleigh. Here are the best ways to enjoy the city of Salzburg during the festive season.
Bringing sparkle to cathedral topped Domplatz and regal Residenzplatz, Salzburg’s Christmas market (Christkindlmarkt) dazzles with thousands of lights from 17 November 2023 up until New Year’s Day. Brass bands play, carollers sing their heart out and huts do a brisk trade in everything from glühwein and hot chestnuts to candied almonds, schnapps and intricately carved decorations, nativity figurines and nutcrackers. Nearby, the Mozartplatz welcomes skaters to glide across its ice rink and those looking to explore smaller markets can head to Schloss Hellbrunn, home to illuminated trick fountains, 700 glittering trees and children’s attractions such as a Christmas post office and Christmas train. The baroque palace's 24 windows are also transformed into a huge advent calendar.
Birthplace of Mozart and a film set for The Sound of Music, Salzburg has a long musical legacy. And at Christmas the city pulls out all the stops with a flurry of festive concerts. High on a hill, medieval Hohensalzburg Fortress resembles a scene from a children’s story book and has dress-circle views of the old town’s rooftops. During Advent, it’s a bewitching backdrop for concerts, with Mozart’s symphonies and traditional Austrian carols reverberating in the castle’s halls.
The Grossen Festspielhaus is another venue that brings the Christmas nativity to life through its advent concerts, while classical, folk music and Christmas carols resound in the gothic hall of St Blasius Church.
Time your Christmas market visit to catch the choirs performing on Domplatz and Residenzplatz at select times and listen to The Turmbläser (a brass band) play festive tunes from the three towers rising up above Residenzplatz in the build-up to Christmas.
Riding a horse-drawn sleigh over snowy slopes and through frozen woodlands is among the most magical experiences you can have in winter. Just over an hour’s drive or train ride south of Salzburg is the Grossarl Valley, where, snuggled up under blankets, you can watch the Alpine scenery unfold, as horses stamp and snort through the snow.
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It’s believed that the Norwegians invented modern skiing as we know it, and the first destination ski resort was Switzerland’s St. Moritz around 1864—more than half a century before the oldest operating mountain in the U.S. opened. It was the ski loving but mountain-challenged British that popularized the very notion of the ski vacation, traveling to the Alps for food, fun and skiing.
A European country has taken over the top spot as the world’s most powerful passport, according to a new index by VisaGuide.World. As of December, the Spanish passport has claimed first place from Singapore, a new study by the visa advice website has found.
Global market research company Euromonitor International has released its annual rankings of city destinations based on tourism, sustainability and economic performance. Europe dominates the field. Paris was crowned the most attractive city destination in the world in the Top 100 City Destinations Index 2023, with seven European destinations landing in the top 10 and the continent owning 63 spots in the top 100 overall. Nadejda Popova, Senior Manager (Loyalty) at Euromonitor International, said: “Paris has retained the title of the world's leading city following exceptional performance across the Tourism Policy and Attractiveness, Tourism Infrastructure and Tourism Performance pillars.” Paris was followed by Dubai in second place, Madrid in third, Tokyo in fourth and Amsterdam in fifth. The top 10 was rounded out by Berlin (6), Rome (7), New York (8), Barcleona (9) and London (10).
I’m a budget-conscious skier, so Switzerland is rarely on my radar. Sure, resorts such as St Moritz, Zermatt and Verbier are world-class, but I’ve always assumed they have sky-high prices to match. My last ski trip was to wallet-friendly Andorra. A quick check of the Post Office’s annual ski resort report confirmed my suspicions: Switzerland is consistently the priciest destination in Europe, while Bulgaria, Italy, Austria and Andorra offer more affordable skiing.
A few years ago, at a reception at the Polish embassy in Bern, Switzerland, an elderly Jewish man pulled the ambassador aside and relayed an unbelievable story. They were standing on holy ground, the man said, a place where near-secret acts of heroism played out during World War II. Intrigued, the ambassador, Jakob Kumoch, tasked his staff with looking into the man’s claims. Soon, an incredible history emerged.
As options for the traditional chalet ski break have dwindled and prices risen, venturing to Europe’s far corners and beyond for a ski break can reap rewards. Costs are often lower, while luxury accommodation can be similarly priced to budget options in mainstream European ski resorts. As well as being potentially cheaper, skiing in territory off the beaten track can offer a rich cultural experience, plus better flight routes, less crowded slopes, sunnier days and a friendlier welcome.
“He’s in here, in the kitchen every night and he’s smiling. He’s so happy to be doing this,” explains one of the managers of Café Carmellini. He is chef Andrew Carmellini, well known around New York the past 15 years for his respected but more casual restaurants Locanda Verde, Lafayette, The Dutch, Carne Mare and Bar Primi. This restaurant, which opened November 1st in the new Fifth Avenue Hotel, marks his return to fine dining with reinterpretations of French and Italian classics and as his most personal restaurant is the first one that bears his name. It’s been packed since opening night and looking around the Gilded Age style dining room with its oversized bronze and seeded glass chandeliers suspended from double height ceilings, plush blue banquettes and sculpted trees in the middle of the floor, the chef isn’t the only one smiling.
While countries like Germany and Austria tend to get the lion’s share of attention when it comes to Christmas markets, the Czech Republic should be a prime destination for those seeking enchanting holiday markets. Prague's Old Town Square is a picturesque and festive spot come holiday time, but you’ll also find lesser-known treasures in places like Brno and Plzeň, each offering incredible markets. Here’s a closer look at three fantastic destinations in the Czech Republic where you can immerse yourself in the holiday spirit while enjoying the festive charm of Christmas markets.