These days, it seems that some restaurants will add a dollop of caviar to anything, from fried chicken to hamburgers, practically reducing the once-luxurious treat to a condiment. So it’s perhaps no surprise that chefs are turning their attention to something more rarefied than your everyday osetra: albino caviar, which ranges in color from alabaster to golden, and is the result of uncommon mutations. The most sought after is that of the beluga sturgeon but, says Hermes Gehnen, the founder of N25 Caviar, an international purveyor, “restaurants generally can’t afford it. It’s more for superyachts.” At Les Trois Chevaux in New York, the eggs of the Acipenser ruthenus, a small sturgeon known as the sterlet, are shaped into a quenelle tableside and plated with white asparagus, aerated béchamel and beurre de baratte-basted brioche. The monochromatic presentation allows diners to be “more cognizant of what [they’re] actually tasting,” says the restaurant’s owner, Angie Mar, 41, who describes albino caviar as “supple and velvety.” Rasmus Munk, 32, the chef and co-owner of Alchemist in Copenhagen, is drawn to albino caviar’s “beautiful aroma of butter and creamy texture.” He serves it atop a square of crisp, sourdough-flavored freeze-dried milk born of his collaboration with an M.I.T. researcher on food for space travel. And at the omakase restaurant the Araki in London, the chef Marty Lau slices white cuttlefish and squid into fine ribbons and tops them with a spoonful of golden roe. Although white caviar stock is limited, they aren’t the only pale orbs worth chasing. Snail eggs, which have a mushroomlike flavor, have the same visual appeal despite their earthy taste. Just don’t assume they’ll be a bargain. “Sometimes,” says Munk, “you’ll pay even more money for snail eggs than you do for caviar.” —
6 more Hanseatic League cities with UNESCO attractions
20.07.2023 - 13:19 / wanderlust.co.uk
The Hanseatic League was a wealthy trading federation that from the 12th to the 17th century dominated commerce in the Baltic Sea. For more about the League and some of the cities most associated with it, see our article here. But, with over 200 cities associate with the Hansa League, there are many more European cities with intriguing remnants of those days. Here are six more you should visit with a new perspective.
Stralsund was one of the Hanseatic League’s wealthiest members and its charming Old Town boasts over 800 listed buildings. These include the Town Hall, a masterpiece of brick Gothic, and St Mary’s Church which in the 16th century was the tallest building in the world. A striking addition to Stralsund’s historic waterfront is the curvaceous white Oceanarium, one of northern Germany’s most popular attractions.
Medieval Europe had an insatiable appetite for stockfish (wind-dried cod) and Bergen’s Bryggen district was where Hanseatic merchants traded for this valuable commodity. The rows of colourful wooden houses date from the 18th century but are faithful copies of the original Hanseatic houses. The Fish Market is one of the oldest and busiest in Norway and the nearby restaurants are excellent places to try Bergen’s renowned seafood.
Germany’s second largest port is still a self- governing Free Hanseatic City and is the nation’s smallest federal state. The city exudes a convivial working class ambience best experienced in the Schnoor neighbourhood, a maze of ancient cobbled lanes lined by bars and cafes and also in the Ratskeller, the Town Hall’s raucous wine cellar that is home to a traditional restaurant and one of Germany’s largest collection of wines.
Hanseatic merchants trading in Russia’s oldest city made fortunes buying ermine and sable for the royal courts of Europe. The commerce was strictly regulated by the church and, to keep on its good side, Hanseatic merchants financed many of Novgorod’s 50 medieval churches. The onion-domed structures and priceless icons painted by Byzantine master artists represent the finest concentration of medieval art and architecture in Russia.
In medieval times this Flemish canal city was the wool capital of Europe and a melting pot of Italian, Portuguese and Hanseatic merchants. Wealthy families in the city became great patrons of the arts and Bruges’ legacy of early Renaissance art is outstanding. Notable examples include the collection of Van Eycks in the Groeningemuseum and Michelangelo’s Madonna of Bruges in the Church of Our Lady.
The Hanseatic League’s influence stretched deep into the heart of Germany and the imperial city of Quedlinburg was an important member. Today the sleepy town is dominated by an imposing castle and abbey built on a
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