A first-time guide to Georgia

17.06.2024 - 15:35 / lonelyplanet.com

Jun 17, 2024 • 7 min read

Mountainous Georgia is the queen of the Caucasus. For the past decade, it has slowly been making a reputation for itself among those in the know for its unique combination of ancient and modern attractions, extraordinary natural beauty, and rich and proud cultural traditions.

Rarely has such a small country appeared so enormous in scale upon arrival, with a glimpse of Europe’s highest mountain range never far away, and an almost limitless variety of landscapes that few countries five times the size could hope to rival.

From its subtropical Black Sea coastline and pristine inland river gorges to its ancient, cave-hewn monasteries and undulating vineyards backed by the snowcapped Great Caucasus, Georgia is an absolute treat. 

When to visit Georgia hinges on what type of trip you’re planning. Most importantly, if you want to visit the mountains and do any serious hiking, then June, July and August are definitely your best bets. That said, these three months can be uncomfortably hot in the lowlands, where Georgia’s three main cities, Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi are found. If you’re after more urban pursuits and are keen to avoid the crowds and high season prices, then May and September are two outstanding months to travel. 

The long and dark winter (November to March) is generally best avoided, as most traveler infrastructure closes down and the High Caucasus are largely inaccessible. That said, if you do find yourself in Georgia in winter, you’ll find it remarkably tourist-free and the hotels that are open will offer you their lowest rates of the year. 

Given the not-insignificant effort necessary for many travelers to reach Georgia, staying for less than four nights might seem like a wasted opportunity. Ideally, spend at least a week in the country, which will allow you to get to know Tbilisi, travel for a few days around the country’s interior and spend at least a couple of nights in the mountains. 

Due to its location, nearly all visitors to Georgia arrive by plane, and it’s never been so easy to reach the country. Tbilisi’s modern airport boasts a dozen flights a day from major cities in Europe, as well as several daily connections to the Middle East and Asia. In contrast, David the Builder airport, near the centrally located city of Kutaisi, has created a niche as the country’s low-cost airline hub and is well connected to other (mainly eastern) European airports.

Once you've arrived, you’ll have to decide between making your way around the country by privately run minibuses known as marshrutky, which serve specific routes, or by self-driving a hire car, which is significantly pricier, but offers you unparalleled freedom. The only train most travelers take is the modern and