A first-time guide to Yellowstone National Park

12.07.2024 - 20:18 / lonelyplanet.com

Jul 7, 2024 • 7 min read

America’s oldest national park, Yellowstone has been captivating visitors since the 1870s. Lofty mountain peaks, thundering waterfalls and abundant wildlife are all big draws of this 3471-square-mile park, but even more extraordinary are Yellowstone’s geothermal features. This is the land of boiling geysers, gurgling mud pools and steaming lakes. Traveling in this remote corner of northwestern Wyoming can sometimes feel like exploring another planet.

Most people plan a trip during the summer season, from June to early September. This is when all of the roads, campgrounds and trails are open (though snow is still possible at higher elevations through early July). Unfortunately, it’s also a very busy time with congested roads and sizable crowds at key destinations (like Old Faithful). 

You can beat the crowds and higher accommodation prices by coming just before or after the high season (May or October). For a different perspective on Yellowstone, visit during the winter when access is generally  by special snow coach (buses with huge snow tires). Several lodges in the park stay open in the winter, and you can arrange tours by ski and snowshoe.

With five far-flung entrances, Yellowstone is enormous, and you could easily spend a week here and not run out of things to see and do. If you have only a long weekend, spend your first day on the west side of the park, where you’ll find the most impressive geothermal features – like Old Faithful, Norris Geyser Basin and Mammoth Terraces. 

On day two, head east to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, then have a look at scenic Yellowstone Lake – particularly the area around West Thumb, which also has geysers and bubbling hot springs.

If you have four days to spare, you can also fit in some wildlife watching in the Lamar Valley, squeeze in a challenging hike or two and not have to rush your time at park visitor centers. Park-run museums near Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone give insight into the park’s natural history, its wildlife and the geological forces at work deep beneath the earth’s surface.     

The main gateway airports are in Jackson (56 miles), Bozeman (65 miles) and Billings (129 miles). There’s also the tiny West Yellowstone airport, though it has limited and pricey summer services. Once you fly in, you’ll need to rent a car as there is no bus service available in the park. 

With lots of cars on park roads, you’ll need to plan carefully: head out early to your top destination of the day to avoid traffic snarls, and pack plenty of patience. Traffic jams are often caused by bison, who sometimes decide they want to take a stroll right down the middle of the road. Just remember that this is their land, and we’re the