If the government expectations come to fruition, the image of the French “bon vivant,” sitting at a street cafe with a glass of wine in one hand and a cigarette in the other, is in the process of finally changing.
A first-timer's guide to Troyes, France
14.11.2023 - 13:07 / lonelyplanet.com
In Troyes (pronounce: trwa), the smallest, and most upstream, of the four cities traversed by the river Seine, you will find plenty to amaze and entertain you for at least three days.
Be astonished by the greatest number of colorful, medieval half-timbered houses in France – there are 3000 of them. Admire stained glass windows – the city boasts some of the most wonderful in the world with a dedicated museum to boot – then wonder at the ingenuity of humankind in the lovely MOPO museum, which focuses on tools, trades and crafts over the centuries. Soak in some world-class modern art, and then shop till you drop in factory outlets. When your feet are tired and your mind is full, you can quench your thirst (in moderation, naturally) with Champagne – Troyes is the capital of the Aube department, which produces a quarter of the region's famous bubbly beverage.
Plan your visit to Troyes with this first-timer's guide to everything from where to stay to the best things to see and do.
Anytime. When it’s warm and sunny, enjoy wandering around the old city, known as Le Bouchon (the cork) because it is shaped like a champagne cork lying on its side with the head, fashioned by the Seine, facing east. A canal with fountains slices the cork north to south. West of this canal the parallel sides of the cork’s body lie where the ancient city walls used to be.
In more inclement weather, keep warm and dry visiting the churches and museums, or trying the local delicacy, andouillette de Troyes (chitterlings sausage), in one of the many restaurants.
At the end of October you can catch the six-day Nuits de Champagne (Champagne Nights) music festival.
Two or three days is an ideal length of time to explore Troyes. Although Le Bouchon is small (2km/1.2 miles from east to west and 820m/2690ft north to south), you can spend at least half a day just wandering along the streets, many of which are pedestrianized, admiring the colorful, medieval, half-timbered houses. Take special notice of the Maison des Chanoines, on the corner of the rue Émile Zola (the main pedestrianized shopping street) and the rue Turenne, and you’ll notice that the front door is on the first floor. That’s because the house was moved here in 1969 but reconstructed on a modern, concrete ground floor to align its roof with others in the street. Apparently it’s easy to move half-timbered houses, as long as you make sure you number all the beams and put them back up in the right order!
Don’t miss the narrowest street, the ruelle des Chats (cat street). It's nothing to do with cats, apparently, but is an ancient misspelling. It should have been the ruelle des chas (eye of a needle street), which is much more appropriate given how small the road is.
In three days you’ll be
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