“People feed on good ideas in Zurich,” announces Ity Tiwari, an Indian-born, Zurich-based vegetarian food blogger and chef. “As a vegetarian, I’m continually delighted by the creativity and quality of dishes here. But I’m just as obsessed with Zurich’s humanity and the determination to do things the right way, with many restaurants pioneering zero-waste and community-driven initiatives.”
Lunch is a little earlier than expected on our gastronomic tour: we’re headed to the new company canteen at On, in Zurich-West. On is one of Switzerland’s best-loved brands, producing Swiss-engineered footwear with a cult following. “On have collaborated with a local vegan eatery called Roots to develop Switzerland’s first 100% plant-based office canteen,” Ity explains. Roots Food Lab — next to the On flagship store — is also open to the public and stars such as Roger Federer have been spotted dining here. An airy, contemporary space, it feels like the workplace of the future — and the vegan buffet is equally pleasing.
The On canteen may be a new development, but we are about to learn that Zurich has long been forward-thinking when it comes to food. Our next stop is Hiltl, which opened in 1898 and is recognised by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s oldest continually open vegetarian restaurant. Here, the in-house, plant-based butcher’s shop, Hiltl Vegimetzg, is Switzerland’s first. Visit for vegan wines, plant milks, cookbooks and innovative plant-based deli meat alternatives.
Hiltl’s Milo Stegmann explains that although only 5% of the Swiss population is strictly vegetarian, many more of Zurich’s citizens regularly enjoy meat-free meals. “In Zurich people eat a vegan lunch without even noticing it’s vegan,” he says. Hiltl is a historic institution, but it’s not content to rely on heritage alone. I ask about community impact and sustainability, and Milo replies: “We took avocados off the menu as we had ethical concerns about water waste, so our chefs developed an alternative pea-based guacamole that’s really popular.” With ever-evolving menus and ethical sourcing, Hiltl is one of a number of Zurich eateries championing positive change.
In the Old Town, Ity steers us into Café & Conditorei 1842, an indulgent establishment housed in a 13th-century listed building. This historic cafe is now run by the Arbeitskette Foundation, which aims to integrate disadvantaged young people (including participants in Switzerland’s migration programme) into the hospitality industry. Ity tells us they serve the best hot chocolate in the city. As I sip a deliciously creamy cup in the lavishly decorated drawing rooms, I’m inclined to agree. This is a treat on all levels.
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Berlin’s food scene is flourishing as never before. Over the past decade or so, partly thanks to relatively inexpensive rents and the city’s reputation for fostering creativity, local culinary entrepreneurs have been given platforms to experiment and grow, and chefs and restaurateurs have been drawn here from all over the world. Danish-born, Icelandic-trained chef Victoria Eliasdóttir is currently culinary director at vegetable-focused Dóttir; Vancouverite Dylan Watson-Brawn, chef and co-founder of Michelin-starred Ernst and its minimalist ‘little brother’, Julius, was named the top chef in Germany by Gault-Millau in 2022.
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Since cruising resumed post-pandemic, I've been on more than 30 sailings, and I have several more planned. At this point, cruise lines have eased restrictions such that wearing a mask is largely optional.
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Visitors often come to Portland, Maine, for the first time because they want to spend a summer weekend in a quaint city by the water, or because they’ve heard about the city’s superlative seafood (80 percent of the United States’ lobster comes from Maine). Seduced by the easy access to nature and relative affordability, many return for longer stays or even for good. Between 2020 and 2022, Maine’s population had the highest percentage increase of any New England state.
Switzerland’s largest city may not (yet) draw the crowds of its other Western European counterparts, but it has more than enough of its share of panache to lure travelers and keep them engaged, entertained, and edified. The eminently walkable city, in spite of streets that zig and zag, is also increasingly bike-friendly. To wit: in 2024, Zurich will host Cycle Week, the national biking festival, and serve as the location for the annual Road and Para-Cycling Road World Championships. But you don’t need to ride competitively to enjoy Zurich’s myriad charms—gorgeous waterfront location, historic Old Town, sophisticated shopping, and artsy neighborhoods among them.
Known as the “playground of Europe,” this small mountainous country offers a wealth of Alpine adventures, from skiing and sledding down powdery slopes to exploring an extensive network of biking and hiking trails. But there is more to Switzerland than its breathtaking scenery. Here are 10 of the top ways to experience it.
With its storybook alpine scenery, cultured lakeside cities, and miles of peerless pistes, Switzerland packs a lot into its landlocked borders. We consulted resident experts, from museum curators and musicians to hiking guides and authors, for their insider tips.
What countries spring to mind when thinking of the Viking Age? Chances are it’s the likes of Norway, Denmark, Iceland, or Sweden that you most closely associate with the seafaring Norsemen of the 8th to 11th centuries.