A ski guide to Valais: finding your slope in southern Switzerland

11.09.2024 - 00:51 / lonelyplanet.com

Sep 10, 2024 • 7 min read

Switzerland might appear small on paper, but it’s a hell of a lot bigger when you look up. Welcome to one of Europe’s most mountainous countries, where the Alps ripple across 60% of its territory. With a whole lot of vertical, it’s all about peak performance here – the Swiss are practically born on skis and four-year-olds will often whizz rings around you on the slopes. And the rush is never greater than where the glacier-capped Alps are at their highest: Valais, a canton tucked away in the south of Switzerland and straddling the Italian border.

When the first flakes fall in winter, the land of mighty Matterhorn and the 4634m Dufourspitze, Switzerland’s highest peak, has skiers itching to hurtle down the pistes or make fresh tracks in the backcountry. And whether you’re a black-run thrill seeker, a lover of cruisy blues with big views, or an absolute beginner, there’s a run with your name on it. Read on for our seven absolute faves.

Best for riveting Matterhorn views and skiing into Italy

Let’s begin with the big one… You never forget the first time you clap eyes on 4478m Matterhorn: that perfect pyramid-shaped peak that says Switzerland (and Toblerone) like no other. Most likely it will be a fleeting glimpse from the little red train that chugs from Visp to Zermatt. Once you arrive, there are distractingly lovely vistas from the slopes, which are the country’s highest, topped off by the 3883m Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car station, where you can swoon over views of 14 glaciers and 38 mountain peaks over 4000m.

Car-free Zermatt makes a terrific base for hitting the pistes, which amount to 360km when coupled with over-the-mountain Cervinia in Italy (much easier to reach since the 2023 launch of the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing). The cruisy slopes around Rothorn, Stockhorn and Klein Matterhorn suit confident intermediates, while plenty of great off-piste areas will please powder hounds (though getting a guide is wise). Likewise, there is fine skiing for beginners and families at Wolli Park Sunnegga, and a snowpark with rails, boxes, jumps and kickers for boarders. A bonus for families is that kids under nine ski free.

Planning tip: One of the world’s most scenic train rides, the Glacier Express makes the 290km, eight-hour journey between Zermatt and St Moritz twice daily from mid-December to early May.

Best for quiet, uncrowded slopes and heavenly off-piste

Huddled away in the deeply traditional Val d'Hérens, and with pop-up views of glacier-encrusted 4000m peaks, the sleepy hamlet of Arolla has a backdrop out of all proportion with its size (population 200). Sitting at a giddy 1998m, the endearingly Alpine village has an impeccable snow record, ravishing scenery and 47km of