A trail of two cities: an alternative guide to Salford and Manchester
07.05.2024 - 10:33
/ theguardian.com
/ Art
On the first Sunday of May every year, Chapel Street, where central Manchester and Salford meet, comes alive with DIY art, music and spectacle at the Sounds from the Other City festival. It is a vibrant public celebration of the “community spirit and collaborative working” which co-director Emma Thompson says sustains much alternative culture in the region.
“Collaboration is core to what we do, to Greater Manchester as a city,” Thompson says. “People come together, and it crosses genres and art forms. Sounds from the Other City wouldn’t be turning 20 next year if it wasn’t for that. The fees we offer aren’t huge but people really get behind it, do it for the love of it.”
Thompson is forthright about the challenges facing those making experimental art: “It’s precarious. It feels unstable.” Costs are high, affordable space is scarce, funding is “very competitive”. Such forces are reshaping the creative landscape, literally. Manchester’s Northern Quarter still has its quirkier, arty hangouts, but generic bars and restaurants dominate. Leftfield culture is migrating to the city’s edges – or into Salford.
For the past 18 months, the band WH Lung have been based at Salford’s Islington Mill, a complex of artist-maker studios. Keyboard player Tom Sharkett says that a time when, in many ways, you’d “have to be mad” to pursue a life in music and art, it is inspirational to be surrounded by people “doing cool stuff for the right reasons”.
Opened in 2000, Islington Mill has latterly expanded into new buildings, including an adjacent trading estate. “The Mill feels like it’s taken on a new life. It feels strong,” says Sharkett. That’s also true of wider Manchester and Salford’s creative vigour. The obstacles are many, but the urge to make great art endures.
Arguably, Manchester music is as vibrant right now as at any point post-punk – from Anz to Space Afrika, Blackhaine to Sockethead, Mandy, Indiana to Michael J Blood. Much of that is down to the nurturing influence of The White Hotel, a former garage near Strangeways prison. In contrast with the bland gentrification of modern Manchester, this singular entity (grimy location, great sound, art school ethos, all-night-rave energy) has created space for new music to grow. “It’s a really important space,” says Thompson.
In the Northern Quarter, but in similar creative territory, club and gig venue Soup proves that all you need is a basement, a red light and, as well as a feeling, a programme that challenges its audience.
Other city-centre venues that defy convention include punk and indie haven the Star & Garter, Aatma, the Peer Hat and Peste (see Drink section below). But interesting things increasingly happen just outside the centre, often in unexpected places.
Two