All stations to Athens: crossing Europe by train and boat
01.11.2023 - 14:37
/ theguardian.com
/ Lake Como
There’s been a rockslide somewhere in the Maurienne Valley, deep in the French Alps. By the time I’m due to set off on an intricately planned, early autumn European rail trip from London to Athens, nearly a week has passed since the incident. My intended path through France, Italy and then on to Greece via sea had relied on a connection from Lyon to Milan passing directly through this region. Now the route is out of action and it could be months before the railway tracks are dug out from the rubble. Initially, I’m irate. En route to the Eurostar terminal at London’s St Pancras at 6.30am, however, I encourage myself to think differently.
My decision to opt for a flightless pilgrimage in search of late-September sun wasn’t only environmentally driven. I’d also chosen to take the slower way in the hope of learning to enjoy the journey; seeing it not as an inconvenience but as a part of the adventure. Diversions needn’t be a drag, I tell myself, but an opportunity. In this case, to visit Switzerland.
Armed with an Interrail pass (adult prices start at £220), on day one I am in Paris Gare du Nord by 11am. I have booked an early afternoon service to Strasbourg from nearby Gare de l’Est and so have time for a quick lunch and some snack shopping at the Marché couvert Saint-Quentin only a few minutes from both stations.
From Strasbourg, my impromptu Swiss leg then takes me on a four-hour rail journey through Basel and on to Zurich from where I head to Klosters, arriving in the famous ski resort that in warmer months offers cable cars, hilltop walks and a serene open-air lido in the shadow of snow-capped mountains around 7.30pm, exhausted. I spend day two here, exploring.
Refreshed, legs well and truly stretched, day three is a full travel day down to Florence, Italy. This Alpine journey is on diversion, too, after a derailment in the Gotthard Base Tunnel, the world’s longest railway tunnel. By now, I’m embracing these unexpected changes. It’ll take an extra hour, yes, with the train on diversion. That’s more time to soak up the glaciers and forests outside, which give way to stunning vistas of Lake Como, before arriving in Milan. From here, it’s two hours to Florence, where we arrive long after night has fallen. After a late dinner of Tuscan treats at the great-value Trattoria Sabatino, we wander along the banks of the Arno River – the sidestreets are lined with bars open until the not so early hours.
After a morning spent church-hopping on day four, I take the 3.48pm from Florence to Naples. The three-hour trip does pass through Rome, but with limited time I prioritise my hankering for the Neapolitan. With only a short time in town, pizza is the priority. After a forensic watching of the relevant episode of