With rugged mountains, untouched beaches and fertile soil that grows coconuts, tea and spices, Sri Lanka offers travelers a wondrous mix of experiences unmatched for an island of its size.
23.10.2023 - 10:29 / theguardian.com / Belle Epoque / James Joyce
The uppermost tip of the Adriatic is a curious mix of cultures, cuisines and architectural styles. Pack lightly and tour the Istrian peninsula, before hopping over to the Venetian lagoon opposite. On a clear day, you can see from one side of the sea to the other. Forgo car hire, it’s more serene to travel by ferry, train and bus – and the occasional taxi out of season.
Now Italian, once Austrian, Trieste has always been one of a kind. Order Apfelstrudel with your espresso on the Piazza Unità d’Italia. Soak up the cosmopolitan influences against the background noise of different languages. The city is haunted by enigmatic friendships. James Joyce met fellow modernist writer Italo Svevo here; a small museum nearby devotes half its space to each. (Svevo was born Aron Ettore Schmitz and was an inspiration for Leopold Bloom.) The central square is the setting for an older, more dramatic acquaintance. The most influential art historian to have lived, Johann Winckelmann, was murdered in a hotel on the piazza, in 1768 – by a man locals called his “friend”. Tourists have come to play detective, or pay homage, ever since: Winckelmann’s memorial is up on the hill. From the hilltop, you can glimpse the castles of Duino and the more popular Miramare. The poet Rainer Maria Rilke stayed in the former and began writing his Duino Elegies there. He remembered fondly an intimate room that framed an immense sea view. Miramare, meanwhile, was the folly of an Austrian archduke, who then tried his hand at ruling Mexico. He was promptly shot.
Trieste’s five-star Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta, from the 19th century, stands in place of the Osteria Grande that Winckelmann checked into. Rooms from £250 (duchidaosta.com), or for a simpler Belle Époque experience, try the Ponterosso Suite with rooms from £108 (ponterossosuite.com).
For £8, take the ferry from Trieste with Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) to the pretty harbour of Piran. This small Slovenian town is pedestrianised; winding coastal paths lead out to salt pans and nature reserves. Culture here is literally salt of the earth; you can taste it sprinkled on scallop carpaccio, with citrus zest and truffle shavings at a favourite local restaurant, Rostelin. Truffles with seafood is a signature pairing of the Istrian peninsula, a pescatarian’s paradise, and goes well with local wines of the Malvasian grape. Piran’s architecture is an understated version of Venice, reached in under three hours by ferry in high season. But for a bit of art deco, swim past or stay at Hotel Piran, which opened a century ago when the “Austrian Riviera” was a fashionable destination.
The four-star Hotel Piran enjoys prime position with a rooftop bar looking out across the bay. Rooms from £112
With rugged mountains, untouched beaches and fertile soil that grows coconuts, tea and spices, Sri Lanka offers travelers a wondrous mix of experiences unmatched for an island of its size.
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