At the southwest corner of Ishikawa, a verdant prefecture hugging the Sea of Japan, traditional craftsmanship thrives alongside contemporary art and architecture in the small towns that make up Kaga City.
05.05.2024 - 12:01 / cntraveler.com
I pulled into the tiny hamlet of Hirase, in Japan’s Gifu prefecture, at the peak of the day’s heat. I’d just climbed several thousand feet through Hakusan National Park, on a twisting, waterfall-lined road, before eventually descending into the shimmering fantasy landscape of Shirakawa-go, an almost Tolkien-esque small village—and UNESCO heritage site—comprised of centuries-old thatched, peaked-roof farmhouses in the gassho-zukuri style. Replenishing myself with a black-sesame ice cream cone, I made the last push towards my destination. My cycling computer eventually told me “destination reached,” but all I could see was a succession of closed businesses lining a small street. Seeking shade, I flopped against a security gate.
Gearing up to text the ride leader that I was lost, I suddenly saw, in the distance, two cyclists from my group. One, a Dane living in London and a veteran of the trip, escorted me precisely 100 feet to the entrance of a traditional house, half hidden from the street by trees. This was Tosuke-no-yu Fujiya, a traditional ryokan with hot springs; a lacquered-wood and shoji-screen retreat that resists the march of time (and the all-seeing eye of Google Maps.) We were too early for check-in, so we made our way, clad in cycling kit, towards the nearby Shō River. Scrambling barefoot across rocks, we plunged into the clear, bracing mountain water.
I have often found, on a trip, that it is not the perfectly scripted moment that endures in the memory, but that juncture where something has gone awry. Something that might require a touch of fortitude, of inventiveness—of halting conversation with locals—to resolve. Something that momentarily takes us out of our comfort zone. “Only through shadows can we see the beauty of a lighted room,” writes Junichiro Tanizaki in his classic In Praise of Shadows. Something of that spirit exists in RAID Cycling, the outfitter with which I have booked an eight-day expedition, by bike, from Tokyo to Kyoto. “I like it a little more rough around the edges,” as Brad Sauber, RAID’s founder and a longtime participant in the world of luxury bike trips, describes the ride. “I like to bring people to really remote areas—maybe there aren’t five-star hotels. Or maybe some might be, but I don’t want five nights of five-star hotels.”
Biking across the Wagatani Suspension Bridge in the Ishikawa Prefecture
Two decades ago, Sauber was in Japan, on his honeymoon, when inspiration struck, through the window of the Shinkansen. “I remember seeing these amazing little roads, with hardly any traffic,” he says. “I thought, there’s gotta be a way to ride a bike here.” Working at the time for Rapha Travel, the adventure division of the noted clothing brand, he spent 15 days
At the southwest corner of Ishikawa, a verdant prefecture hugging the Sea of Japan, traditional craftsmanship thrives alongside contemporary art and architecture in the small towns that make up Kaga City.
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This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation and emails with Gladys Nkengasong , a 27-year-old consultant who moved to the UK from Atlanta in 2021. The following has been edited for length and clarity.
As the local saying goes, Fiji is a place “where happiness comes naturally.” Travel buyers and journalists at this past week’s annual Fiji Tourism Exchange event learned details of how much happiness has been coming here in the past year. Visitor numbers for 2024 are already up 11% compared to 2023, and the nearly one million visitors last year reached a new record for the island nation, representing nearly $1.5 billion U.S. Dollars in revenue to the country.
Much of Challengers’ runtime not spent on a tennis court goes down in a suite and lobby bar at an unnamed luxury New Rochelle hotel. (The film was shot in Boston.) While the techno-pulsing tennis piece of erotica never establishes whether or not these lodgings have a place to play on the premises, there are allusions to sports power couple Tashi and Art Donaldson’s (Zendaya and Mike Faist, respectively) preferred vacation destinations when off the clock. Considering the former’s clinging obsession with the game, and use of the latter as her proxy (she cannot play following an injury), it would be difficult to imagine tennis isn’t somehow involved.
With several thousand kilometers and more than ten countries between them, most travelers transiting from London to Lagos opt for a 6.5-hour plane ride—but Pelumi Nubi isn’t your average traveler. Originally hailing from Nigeria’s largest city and raised in the UK capital, Nubi’s deep affinity for travel led her to launch a truly valiant feat at the end of January 2024: a one-woman road trip spanning from the northern reaches of Europe to the West African coast. While the journey was met with its fair share of obstacles, Nubi reached her destination on April 7th, ultimately cementing her status as the first Black woman to complete a solo road trip from London to Lagos.