I pulled into the tiny hamlet of Hirase, in Japan’s Gifu prefecture, at the peak of the day’s heat. I’d just climbed several thousand feet through Hakusan National Park, on a twisting, waterfall-lined road, before eventually descending into the shimmering fantasy landscape of Shirakawa-go, an almost Tolkien-esque small village—and UNESCO heritage site—comprised of centuries-old thatched, peaked-roof farmhouses in the gassho-zukuri style. Replenishing myself with a black-sesame ice cream cone, I made the last push towards my destination. My cycling computer eventually told me “destination reached,” but all I could see was a succession of closed businesses lining a small street. Seeking shade, I flopped against a security gate.
Gearing up to text the ride leader that I was lost, I suddenly saw, in the distance, two cyclists from my group. One, a Dane living in London and a veteran of the trip, escorted me precisely 100 feet to the entrance of a traditional house, half hidden from the street by trees. This was Tosuke-no-yu Fujiya, a traditional ryokan with hot springs; a lacquered-wood and shoji-screen retreat that resists the march of time (and the all-seeing eye of Google Maps.) We were too early for check-in, so we made our way, clad in cycling kit, towards the nearby Shō River. Scrambling barefoot across rocks, we plunged into the clear, bracing mountain water.
I have often found, on a trip, that it is not the perfectly scripted moment that endures in the memory, but that juncture where something has gone awry. Something that might require a touch of fortitude, of inventiveness—of halting conversation with locals—to resolve. Something that momentarily takes us out of our comfort zone. “Only through shadows can we see the beauty of a lighted room,” writes Junichiro Tanizaki in his classic In Praise of Shadows. Something of that spirit exists in RAID Cycling, the outfitter with which I have booked an eight-day expedition, by bike, from Tokyo to Kyoto. “I like it a little more rough around the edges,” as Brad Sauber, RAID’s founder and a longtime participant in the world of luxury bike trips, describes the ride. “I like to bring people to really remote areas—maybe there aren’t five-star hotels. Or maybe some might be, but I don’t want five nights of five-star hotels.”
Biking across the Wagatani Suspension Bridge in the Ishikawa Prefecture
Two decades ago, Sauber was in Japan, on his honeymoon, when inspiration struck, through the window of the Shinkansen. “I remember seeing these amazing little roads, with hardly any traffic,” he says. “I thought, there’s gotta be a way to ride a bike here.” Working at the time for Rapha Travel, the adventure division of the noted clothing brand, he spent 15 days
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It's that time of year again—spring is finally turning into summer and travelers are excitedly planning their next great vacation. As we celebrate Memorial Day weekend, the last hurrah before the official beginning of the summer season, we can't forget about the many great travel deals that are popping up this week. From PLAY's Memorial Day flash sale to Cruise Croatia's 20 percent off savings for active and retired military, there is no shortage of great deals.
I often recall the deep cherry lip tint I wore on my first night in Paris. My dear Parisian friend complimented me, borrowed it, and planted a kiss on my cheek. Plenty of smiles came my way on the Métro, thanks to her lipstick stain on my face. On a cloudy day in Berlin, I applied a tinted suede shade of pink, kissed a cozy café’s free postcard, and sent it to my friend back home in NYC. In Manhattan's West Village, one friendly (and perhaps tipsy) stranger asked if she could borrow my NARS Hot Kiss lipstick to use as her blush. She was visiting from Italy—it was her first night, and tragically, she had forgotten to pack her entire makeup bag.
A majority of American adults (82%) plan to take at least one vacation this summer, according to The Vacationer’s recent travel survey. With that in mind, here’s a sampling of unique and unexpected summer escapes at you can find at centers and lodgings from the Pacific to Provence: creative and luxurious experiences to help you beat the heat and lean into the season. These may inspire you to find others to suit your summer interests—and go.
“The Isole Pontine are very special to me. I have been visiting Ventotene and Ponza, the larger two of the six islands, since I was a child, as my family was one of the first to buy property on Ventotene. My mother was born in Rome, and it’s where my parents first met. Even though we lived abroad all our lives, we always returned to Italy to visit relatives. My family’s a bit unusual in that Romans tend to holiday more in Ponza, whereas Ventotene is more Neapolitan.”
Tokyo is a foodie city—and making a plan to eat your way through town can be overwhelming, to say the least. It’s pretty easy to find good food—there’s a reason even the convenience stores in Tokyo are well-loved for their food and snacks—but having a plan will help ensure you really get to sample everything you want to try while in town.
The dawn chorus is loud in the woods as I unzip my tent to peer out at the new day and a sea of bluebells. I make tea and drink it slowly, enjoying the peace. It’s a perfect start to the morning after my first solo wild camp.
Within months of the Pearl Harbor bombing on Dec. 7, 1941, the United States, in cooperation with the Canadian authorities, set out to build a highway from British Columbia to Alaska, then a territory and viewed as vulnerable to attack by Japan. The original 1,685-mile road took more than 10,000 soldiers less than nine months to complete.
It might be whisky (with no ‘e’) when referring to Scottish, Canadian, or Japanese grain spirits, but when it comes to grain spirits distilled in Ireland and the United States – it’s whiskey (with an ‘e’). Regardless of how it’s spelled, today, Saturday 18 May the world will unite to celebrate World Whisky Day - the annual day celebrating whisky, inviting everyone to try a dram and celebrate the water of life, but do you know the history of whiskey in Illinois? Kentucky and Tennessee might be the states that come to mind when thinking of whiskey in the United States however, Illinois and more specifically Peoria, located along the Illinois River160 miles southwest of Chicago, was known as ‘The Whiskey Capital of the World.’
At the southwest corner of Ishikawa, a verdant prefecture hugging the Sea of Japan, traditional craftsmanship thrives alongside contemporary art and architecture in the small towns that make up Kaga City.