An alternative guide to Leeds: a city with an independent spirit
27.03.2024 - 18:41
/ theguardian.com
/ Art
‘Leeds has an independent, thriving arts scene,” says Emma Beverley, the director of programmes at last year’s cultural showcase, Leeds 2023. “A lot of that is grounded in an artist-led movement that is pretty pioneering.”
In 2017, Leeds had put in a bid to become European capital of culture, with £1m already invested, which hit the buffers when Brexit automatically ruled any British cities out of contention. In typically stubborn Yorkshire fashion, the city pressed ahead with its own year-long celebration of culture.
As someone who has lived in the West Yorkshire city for five years, I can testify that it is worthy of being a capital of culture. There’s a strong food and drink scene, vibrant nightlife and live music, as well as offbeat cultural institutions where grassroots artists thrive. It also ranks as one of the best student cities in the UK, with many alumni staying on and contributing to an exciting cultural renaissance.
Leeds is a compact city and, with the recent pedestrianisation of its centre, has never been easier to explore on foot. The centre is where most of the action takes place: from the characterful Kirkgate neighbourhood, with its market and majestic Corn Exchange, to the creative waterside district of Leeds Dock. However, neighbourhoods such as Headingley retain an independent vibe, with boutiques, charity shops, eateries and the Cottage Road Cinema, the oldest cinema in continuous use in the city. From cultural spaces, including the Old Red Bus Station with its electronic music hub and Hyde Park Picture House, to on-point bars and innovative restaurants, leftfield Leeds is hidden in plain sight.
As well as big-name institutions (Royal Armouries, Leeds Art Gallery), you’ll also find alternative cultural spaces in Leeds. A 30-minute walk from the city centre is Hyde Park Book Club, a disused petrol station that has been transformed into a creative hub showcasing artists, musicians and writers. With a basement and outdoor area, a bar and a bookshop with a section dedicated to Yorkshire writers, this is the perfect place to soak up the creative energy of the city.
For a mix of culture and retail, Leeds Corn Exchange in the city centre is a Grade I-listed landmark dating to 1863. Worth visiting for the architecture alone, it’s also home to independent shopkeepers, such as Indie Makers, Colours May Vary and Chinese Laundry, craft stores, chefs and collectors, as well as hosting record fairs, art shows and festivals.
Less than 10 minutes’ bus ride west of the centre, in Armley, is Assembly House, an artist-led community arts organisation with studios, exhibition spaces and galleries. Providing a stage for established and emerging artists, its calendar features exhibitions, performances