An expert's guide to the best kayaking around Stockholm

13.08.2023 - 07:25 / nationalgeographic.com

Think of Stockholm and it's often the city's cutting-edge modernity, classical architecture and eclectic neighbourhoods that first spring to mind. But if you cast your eye to the east — just over 20 miles from Stockholm's centre — you'll find a little-known, natural nirvana of 30,000-odd islands spilling from the mainland and extending 40 miles into the Baltic Sea. 

While island-hopping by ferry is a popular option for exploring, forging your own route by kayak is the best way to truly taste the archipelago’s boundless wilderness. Tranquil sea conditions allow you to easily wind your way between thousands of islands, islets and skerries, with just seabirds for company. Here, three of the area’s expert kayak guides discuss what makes the area so special and reveal their own favourite spots.

Co-founder and CEO,  The Kayak Trail

What makes the Stockholm archipelago so special?There’s no other place where you have so many islands so densely packed, and where you also have the right to wild camp anywhere you like. We have no underwater currents and no big swell or tidal waters, so kayaking here is very safe. Anyone can do it. 

Is wild camping legal?Yes, so long as you respect people and nature. Sustainability is an integrated part of outdoor culture in Sweden. If you’re respectful, you're allowed to have immense freedom.

Tell us about your favourite kayaking spots.I love the Bullerö Nature Reserve, just east of Nämdö. There are three cottages there that visitors can rent, all heritage buildings that have been kept in traditional style. There's no electricity so it's a real off-grid experience. 

When’s the best time to visit?We call it the magic season — the time from the end of August and beginning of September. You’ll get solitude as well as water that’s still warm. It’s a totally underrated time to visit the archipelago, and Stockholm too, as most visitors arrive in July and leave mid-August.

What kind of wildlife can you expect to see?As well as roe deer and moose, which are often spotted swimming between islands, you can expect plenty of sea birds. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch sight of a sea eagle — the largest bird in Scandinavia.

Aside from kayaking, what are your favourite ways to explore the area?Hiking on the larger islands is a great way to experience the way of the Swedes. One of my favourite islands is Möja, where there’s everything from Viking-era history to cosy cafe culture. 

Sea kayak instructor,  Kayak & Uteliv

What do you love most about kayaking here?On my daily paddle, I’ll pass 20 different islands. That’s so unique. There’s journey diversity too — you can visit the lush, green inner isles, or head to the outer archipelago for total wilderness. It's easy to plan a roundtrip