An Overnight Train Is the Best Way To Experience Canada's Winter Wilderness

11.10.2023 - 16:13 / matadornetwork.com

Modern travel is full of conveniences. Global air hubs connect travelers to faraway places in a matter of hours. But with all these modern comforts, it’s easy to pass right by the things that make the actual travel part of the journey worthwhile. Vacation by Rail’s Winter Magic trip, on board VIA Rail’s Vancouver to Jasper train, is the ultimate way to take in Canada’s winter wilderness the slow, nostalgic way. Views of towering mountain peaks and river-carved valleys combined with a memorable onboard experience sure beats cramming into an airplane seat in economy.

Photo: Lauren Breedlove

My breath puffed as I made my way to platform five at Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station and located the appropriate sleeper car. I was set to embark on the Winter Magic trip from Vancouver to Jasper, and once aboard, I was welcomed by Erik, our train car attendant for the journey. We departed Vancouver at 3:00 PM on the dot, and by 3:05 I was sipping a glass of welcome Champagne and the city started to blur into the background.

The train car itself was reminiscent of the 1950s and venturing from car to car was like a step back in time. It had a slight cruise ship feel to it, accented by the movement of the train, narrow hallways, and small sleeping spaces. But, the comparison stops there — the rest of the experience had more of a summer camp vibe with opportunities to mingle with other travelers, play games, and enjoy the rare luxury of free time.

This particular train route spans from Vancouver to Toronto (and vice versa) and is the second-longest train trip in the world, with the only stop between Vancouver and Jasper being Kamloops at around midnight. The entire route (from Vancouver to Toronto) takes approximately four days; however, the Vancouver to Jasper portion of the trip takes about 19 hours — without any delays, that is.

Photo: Lauren Breedlove

“Is there a key for the rooms?” I asked Erik.

“No, you’re in Canada; you’re safe,” he joked, laughing through his impressive twisty mustache.

The tiny but effective cabins do, in fact, lock from the inside. Each car houses 13 sleeper cabins that make use of their dollhouse size with many features doubling up to serve various purposes including bunk beds, small storage areas, and a window looking out on the passing countryside. You’re not going to be in your room much anyway as the purpose is to be social, meet fellow train travelers, and enjoy the landscape and onboard entertainment.

By day, the room is set up with chairs for gazing out your window if you so choose to gawk in privacy. The train attendant will then turn down your room when requested, transforming the cabin into your slumber space. I’m happy to report that it wasn’t the most uncomfortable bed I’ve slept