Bratislava: it's high time you discovered Slovakia’s capital
21.07.2023 - 08:17
/ roughguides.com
“Little Big City” proclaims the sign on the side of Bratislava’s trams. It’s certainly right about the first, Slovakia’s capital is dinky compared with its neighbours on the Danube – Vienna, the grand old dame of European capitals, ninety minutes to the west by boat, and exuberant Budapest, three hours to the southeast by train.
But as one of Europe’s newer capitals, right at the heart of the continent, Bratislava has a cosmopolitan charm, albeit in a low-key way. While it’s perfectly possible to devote a weekend to people-watching from one of the pavement cafés, supping on an exotically flavoured fresh lemonade that’s all the rage here – lavender, perhaps? – or a glass of local white, there’s more to discover. Here are a couple of very gentle itineraries to inspire your wanderings.
Bounded by a few fragments of old wall, and focused on a couple of attractive squares, the pedestrianized Old Town can be covered in half a day.
Start at Hviezdoslavovo námestie, the long tree-shaded square with the magnificent silver-roofed Slovak National Theatre at one end and cooling fountains dotted along, before turning up to Panská, a fine boulevard of old palaces and new cafés. Pause at Koun at no.13, the city’s best purveyor of ice cream, who offer just a few homemade flavours which change each day – sublime fig and ricotta, addictive salted caramel – making a return visit almost obligatory.
Slovak National Theatre © yuri4u80/Shutterstock
Around the main square (Hlavné námestie) the architectural highlights are the prettily mismatched styles of the Town Hall and, just beyond, the Primate’s Palace.
From here head up to the last remaining city gate, St Michael’s, and clamber up the spiral stairs past the museum of armour for a view over the city – perhaps not the most dramatic vista but the immediacy of the Old Town, looking over the red roofs and across to the blue spire of the cathedral of St Martin, helps you get your bearings.
Cut off from the Old Town by the New Bridge’s approach road – a particularly insensitive piece of communist planning that bulldozed the old synagogue (there’s a memorial to it just south of the cathedral) – Bratislava’s castle stands majestically above the Old Town.
Walk round to the north side of the cathedral and up some steps through a small section of the old ramparts and you can cross a pedestrian bridge over to the castle side. Follow the steps and path up to reach the sturdy, four-towered white castle, largely rebuilt in the 1950s.
From here you can see three countries: over the Old Town in one direction, Slovakian power stacks looming in the distance with Hungary somewhere beyond, and to Austrian wind turbines in the other direction, the wide Danube wending its way in front of you, with