Lonely Planet editor Akanksha Singh traveled to Jaipur to experience its history and culture. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
Road trips to Jaipur were a key part of my childhood in India. Before we left India, my parents would drive my sister and I over from Delhi on long weekends. We’d spent our time visiting local sights, stopping at streetside kathputli (puppet) shows, eating local food, and listening to ek tara, single-stringed instruments, played with a bow.
Some 20 years later, the familiar sight of the red-, pink- and honey-hued forts never fails to amaze me. People say India’s Golden Triangle – Jaipur-Delhi-Agra – is a sensory overload. And it definitely is for people who haven’t traveled through pockets of Asia. Dubbed the “Pink City” after its pink paint-slicked walls that are lined with shops, this trip to Jaipur took me deeper into the historic town's chaotic bylanes and beyond the city’s outskirts.
Agra vs Jaipur: which Indian city is best?
I stayed at Teela the Glamping Resort in Achrol, a village an hour outside Jaipur. I’ve never “glamped” before (I studied geology at university; camping’s more my thing) but I enjoyed the novelty of the experience. It’s really no different from staying in a swish five-star hotel but in a “Moon Dome” – a geodesic tent – with stellar views of the desert, complete with raw dunes, tiny bulbuls and larks twittering away outside your door.
There’s a single restaurant, Rait, on the premises (food was good; I’d recommend the Indian menu over the continental spread) and Teela does offer hotplates and a mini kitchenette setup for long-term guests. However, I did make the mistake of thinking breakfast would be most enjoyable al fresco (it was – for all of two minutes) until I realized that gritty stuff caught in my teeth was indeed sand in my aloo paratha (potato-filled flatbread).
I did so much touristy sightseeing on this trip and, since it’d been a while since I’d seen the highlights, I regret none of it! I toured Amber Fort, with its extravagant chambers and geometrically charged gardens, took photos of the iconic red-and-pink-latticed Hawa Mahal and visited the City Palace, which is still home to Jaipur’s royal family.
Built in the 18th century, the City Palace’s four gates – in an inner courtyard named Pritam Niwas Chowk (“beloved’s courtyard”) – are an artistic obsession of mine. Each “gate” is an extravagantly designed door, themed against a season and dedicated to a Hindu deity. If I’m being honest here, the most touristy thing I did was take an Instagram-esque video of a journal with the Lehariya Gate or Green Gate (which represents spring) on its cover with the gate in the background. The gate is
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