International dialling code: +41 Currency: Swiss f
20.07.2023 - 14:11 / lonelyplanet.com / Kerry Walker
In search of a shot of sea and spring sunshine, Lonely Planet writer Kerry Walker headed to Malta and Gozo and fell hard for these twin islands in the Med. Here she shares the highlights of her trip.
With its one-of-a-kind history, cinematic cities built high and mighty by the Knights of St John, ravishing coastlines and distinctive cuisine embracing Italian and Middle Eastern influences, Malta grabbed me when I first visited 15 years ago - and I have longed to go back ever since. This time I managed to squeeze in a mini trip to neighboring Gozo, too.
If you're looking for a perfect time to visit Malta, it's spring with wildflowers blooming, beaches empty, room rates low, crowds virtually non-existent and temperatures hovering around 20°C. While the sea is still a bit nippy (unless you’re a cold-water fan), the mild days are perfect for other activities - from coastal hikes and runs to horse riding and kayaking, and just hanging out piazza-side in beautiful gold-stone cities.
The Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian’s, where the crisply designed rooms in seaside blues and whites come with front-row views of the Mediterranean. It’s a nice central base for zipping around the island, just a 10-minute walk from St George’s Bay, where you’ll find a sandy beach and loads of nightlife, and a 20-minute ride from Valletta.
There are several pools, a gym, small spa and it’s right on the edge of the Pembroke Nature Reserve (perfect for morning runs). The breakfast buffet was a cut above, with freshly made pancakes and omelets, and I had a great risotto in the hotel's Le Bistro restaurant, which bigs up locally farmed and fished ingredients.
A morning run. There’s something special about getting up to see the pink blush of sunrise and slip into running gear as the first light creeps along the coast. At this early hour, it’s silent but for the gentle shush of waves. My go-to run is the Pembroke Nature Reserve in St Julian’s, where the rocky shore is a fragrant mass of wildflowers.
Otherwise, you’ll find me in Valletta, a gorgeous ochre-stone city of domes, Renaissance palazzi, piazzas, cobbled alleys and streets that rollercoaster down to the sea San Francisco-style. I love passing through Renzo Piano’s City Gate and strolling past townhouses graced with gallariji, ornate wooden balconies, as the city shakes off sleep and coffee pots begin to bubble.
I might go for a freshly roasted cup at retro-cool Lot 61, followed by oven-warm pastizzi - flaky pastry pockets stuffed with ricotta or minced beef - at posh Caffe Cordina, in business since 1837. It’s right on the square opposite the lavish Grandmaster’s Palace, once the HQ of the Knights of St John.
Mdina. On a hilltop perch in the island’s heart, this fortified medieval
International dialling code: +41 Currency: Swiss f
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