In September, hours after landing in Paris, I headed straight to Signature Montmartre, a French-Korean bistro friends had been lavishing with praise. But already this is a series of words I find startling. I had lived and worked in Paris awhile during college; I go back when I can; until this trip, I didn't recall noticing a Korean shop or restaurant here. The bistro's lights shone from large windows like an inviting beacon, guiding me to food that was, as reported, astonishing: French cuisine shot through with distinctly Korean flavors, like tender prawn-filled perilla in a curry aioli, followed by a fig tart with jujube cream, one of the most delicate, fascinating pastries I've ever had.
Copy My Trip: Exploring Uzbekistan's cities, deserts and mountains
02.11.2023 - 18:59 / lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet editor Alex Butler traveled to Uzbekistan for a whirlwind trip to some of the country's highlights and what lies beyond the Silk Road cities. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
Uzbekistan had long been one of those destinations I dreamed about visiting. Photographs of intricate blue tiles on towering medressahs and markets piled high with spices and handcrafted ceramics had me enthralled. I wanted to admire the mosaics of the Registan in all their detail and smell the cumin in the markets for myself. And this year, I finally got the chance.
Admiring 12th-century minarets and the golden spectacle of the Tilla-Kari Medressa in person was incredible, but I was also wowed by the natural beauty of Uzbekistan, from its mountains to its deserts. And there’s never been a better time to start planning a trip to see Uzbekistan for yourself. Lonely Planet has just released its annual Best in Travel list and Uzbekistan is one of the top countries to visit in 2024. Here are some of my stand-out experiences.
The most touristy thing I did was visit the Kalon Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Medressa in Bukhara, which was my favorite city I visited. Stood in the square in the scalding heat of the afternoon — when locals and sensible tourists were inside or in the shade — I gazed in awe at the scale of these architectural feats. The Kalon Minaret, which was built in 1127, has been a source of awe for centuries, as it was likely to have been the tallest building in Central Asia when it was built. With its intricate bands of design that encircle it, it remains captivatingly beautiful today.
While the historic cities of Uzbekistan get the most attention from travelers, my favorite activity was gazing up at the Milky Way from the Kyzylkum Desert.
I stayed in the Kyzylkum Safari Yurt Camp, a 3-4 hour drive from Bukhara or Samarkand. Located near Lake Aidarkul, an expansive Soviet-built reservoir, I swam in its salty water as a reprieve from the intense desert heat. Back at the yurt camp, I climbed up to the top of a sand dune to find the best vantage point to watch the sunset over the sand. After the sun slipped away, we gathered by the campfire to listen to a folk performer sing Kazakh songs.
However, the real magic happened after dark. We wandered away from the fire and into the desert, where the dry climate and lack of light pollution meant the sky was carpeted with stars.
I traveled to Shirin Ethno Village to learn about local Uzbek customs, cuisine and agriculture. Located 27 miles from Bukhara, the village is home to about 1500 people and about 300 homes. In 2022, the village opened a new cultural and agrotourism spot to promote rural tourism to travelers, whilst also
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