When winter’s chill was thawed by the blossoming of spring, our family would set off for the long drive from the Oxfordshire downs to our holiday house in Le Marche, central Italy. Cruising through the arable heartlands of Europe, my heart would skip a beat as we neared the totemic slate gradients of the Italian Alps. Snaking over the Brenner Pass, it felt like being spirited to another world: a sky-bright Narnia, as we emerged blinking-eyed into the Dolomites sun on the other side. Stopping in simple, family-run hotels for the night, the breakfasts were a joyful, modest but perfectly formed ode to the Sud Tyrol locale—the creamiest Sterzinger yogurts that we savored with crimson forest-fresh lingonberries, flower-flecked cheese (for breakfast!) draped with silky threads of marjoram honey from their farm. Today, most hip restaurants are ingredient-led, but these these mountain families have been doing it for centuries.
Lago di Braies in Pragser Wildsee, Dolomites
I returned more than 30 years later, and while you can probably add a zero to what we paid for our roadside inns, the breakfast spread at the region's hero hotel, Forestis, still recalls that homage to the terroir that I remembered: glistening slivers of speck, creamy moguls of pistachio nut butter slathered on hay-baked rye bread, and granola laden with dried fruits from a bosky forage.
This adults-only hotel built on the site of a former pulmonary sanatorium—where the Plose mountains overlooked by its rooms are bathed ice blue in the mornings and glow russet red at dusk—shapes its entire cuisine around its neighboring valleys, vineyards, villages and woodlands. Beard lichen, ribwort plantain and lady’s bedstraw find their prosaic way onto loins of venison, fillets of river rainbow trout and parcels of hand-curled gnocchi, wild juniper flavoring lamb and salads consisting entirely of flora you have never heard of. Everything is imbued with local flavors—from the postbox shiny apples in the monastic spa to the pine-scented spring water from the fountain in the spruce-honed lobby. A stroll through eiderdown soft forest reveals an edible carpet, from larch blossoms to ground elder. It is worth hauling yourself up the Giogo Bello observation deck to earn the evening’s banquet—the room price includes a seven-course set dinner every evening, taken in the almost cinematic dining room with circular booths all facing the floor-to-ceiling windows—except the film is the moving shadows of eventide and shape-shifting mountains.
The Dolomites—meaning pale mountains—span a vast area of 6,000 square miles, over 2000 mountains and hug Austria to the north (the South Tyrol was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919) and Verona in the south and
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Driving through the Tuscan hills, the sun beginning its slow descent in the hazy, glowing heat on an August evening was one of the most exquisite experiences I have ever had. Travelling slowly along small, winding roads near Siena in our old Polo, we settled in to the rhythm the locals live by. The peaceful embrace of the Tuscan way of life was felt at every turn, with every smile we saw and every vineyard we gazed across. The cypress trees lining other, yet-to-be-discovered roads in the distance added to our awe at our surroundings.Lotta
How far would you go – and how long would you take – to avoid flying and thoroughly embrace the idea of slow travel? In my case, it was 3,167 miles over three weeks. For nearly a decade I had wanted to do a road trip to Croatia, and to get as much out of the journey as the destination itself. Rather than bomb down the motorway for marathon stretches, the idea was to slow down and see new things.
I absolutely love Italy, for many different reasons. But I hate the way in which many Americans go about planning trips there. Survey after survey shows it is the number one dream destination for U.S. leisure travelers, but the way those travelers get their information and advice gives me nightmares.
Italy’s best-known beaches are renowned worldwide, thanks to their dramatic seascapes, sparkling seas and settings that offer other-worldly sunrises and sunsets. Fame brings crowding and over-tourism, of course, and while it’s a challenge to find an empty beach almost anywhere in peak season (except boat-access-only coves), there are plenty of under-the-radar and less frenzied spots with ample helpings of natural beauty and historic attractions. These places have not lost their local rhythms and charms to a tidal wave of tourists, and are frequented by Italians who live in nearby towns.
Strolling hand-in-hand through the Public Garden, sharing a candle-lit dinner at an Italian restaurant in the North End, gazing at historic houses on cobblestone streets in Beacon Hill — all of these Boston activities ring with a romantic undertone when you’re with your loved one. And when there is an amorous air, the right hotel is an excellent addition.
Tripadvisor, the world's largest travel guidance platform, has unveiled the winners of its annual Travellers’ Choice Best of the Best Hotels Awards. It reveals this year’s highest-rated hotels in the world, according to its global travel community.
The pool was empty – perhaps because at about 22C, the water was too cold for Italians. It was also about to close. Whatever the reason, we had the glorious Biolago di Pinzolo, a spring-fed, plant-filtered swimming lake, to ourselves. As my son and I swam, we could just make out the tiny red-roofed hermitage of San Martino on the forested slope above, where, according to legend, a hermit survived on bread provided by a tame bear.
Skytrax has released its annual ranking of the world's best airports — and if you're a frequent flyer it may come as little surprise that none in the US made the top 20.
It’s that time of year when Bostonians might see Chef Jody Adams riding her collapsible red Brompton bicycle around town to check in with her empire of seven —soon to be eight—area restaurants. The two-time James Beard Award winner says it’s a great way to zip around Boston’s notorious traffic, and even make new friends.