A gentler side of the Dolomites: a summer break in Italy’s Adamello-Brenta natural park
23.04.2024 - 09:19
/ theguardian.com
The pool was empty – perhaps because at about 22C, the water was too cold for Italians. It was also about to close. Whatever the reason, we had the glorious Biolago di Pinzolo, a spring-fed, plant-filtered swimming lake, to ourselves. As my son and I swam, we could just make out the tiny red-roofed hermitage of San Martino on the forested slope above, where, according to legend, a hermit survived on bread provided by a tame bear.
We’d come to the mountains of northern Italy for an alternative family break, away from the honeypot cities and beach resorts further south.
After our swim we strolled through Parco Pineta, where families were picnicking and teens were making the most of the many sports pitches and skateboard bowl. There seemed to be something for everyone – even the local insect pollinators were catered for with a roped-off patch of wildflowers and a bee hotel.
It might seem odd to rave about an artificial pool in a neatly landscaped public park when the surrounding mountains offer a giddy array of activities in a more dramatic setting, but Biolago di Pinzolo is one of several recent attractions designed to broaden the appeal of the Adamello-Brenta natural park in summer.
Straddling the Italian Alps and the westernmost part of the Dolomites, with the Rendena valley forming the border between the two, the area is a Unesco-listed geopark thanks to the geodiversity of the two mountain ranges. This means the area encompasses fir forests and meadows, glaciers and waterfalls, valleys and stark rocky peaks. Yet relatively few people outside Italy holiday in this northern enclave, opting instead for the more famous Tyrol close to the Austrian border: 80% of tourists in the natural park in summer are Italian, and the foreign visitors who do come tend to head straight into the mountains to brave the via ferrata or climb the rock faces. My 13-year-old son and I were there to discover the natural park in a gentler way.
Our base for the first few days was Pimont Alpine Chalet, a three-bedroom guest house two miles from Pinzolo. One of a cluster of seven stone buildings that were once home to families who tended cattle on the mountainsides, the chalet was converted by Chiara Maestri and her forest ranger husband, Loris Panizza, in 2021. Using the original wood where possible to maintain the spirit of the old farmstead, the interior is stylish but pared back – letting the setting provide the drama, and the food and hospitality the warmth.
Opening mid-pandemic was far from ideal but Chiara used the time to teach herself to bake, and the results are delicious. Breakfast at the chalet is a feast of local produce – yogurt from a nearby farm, berries from the garden, honey from the chalet’s own hives and