Exploring the rugged heart of Gran Canaria on foot
21.07.2023 - 07:49
/ roughguides.com
/ Gran Canaria
Although it’s renowned for sun and sand, Gran Canaria offers great walking opportunities. Follow well-signed trails in its UNESCO biosphere reserve and explore the pre-Hispanic sacred rocks of Bentayga and Roque Nublo.
And after a hard day’s hiking, there’s the reward of wonderful gastronomy and spectacular breath-taking views. If you want to know more about Gran Canaria, a first-timer’s guide to the Canary Islands is a good start.
Los Azulejos Mogán © Visit Gran Canaria
The island’s mountainous interior was crafted by millions of years of volcanic eruptions and erosions. One particularly violent explosion created the Caldera de Tejeda, a crater 18 km wide, when the centre of the volcano collapsed. The two distinctive pillars, Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga crowning the crater, are the result of five million years of erosion.
Now sparsely populated, the region has maintained local traditions more than any other part of the island so sample the local gastronomy. Try the wonderful, salt-fish sweet-potato “sancocho”', accompanied by the typical “papas arrugadas”, (small potatoes baked in salt). For dessert it must be the honey almond sauce "bienmesabe" – which means «it taste me good», washed down with a shot of delicious honey rum.
The crossroads at Cruz de Tejeda are where the principal roads of the interior meet. It also marks the point where the trade winds hit the top of the island so there’s a noticeable change in climate zones — from sunny Tejeda to the cooler, cloudier and wetter conditions that prevail around Vega de San Mateo. This the mountainous heart, at an altitude of 1580m, and makes a good start for two walks.
Mirador Parque Rural Nublo © Visit Gran Canaria
This involves a gradual climb up through the pines then a gentle downhill ridge walk. The views across to the Caldera de Tejeda are stunning, with Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga, dominating the horizon. The path passes the Cuevas de Caballero, caves with aboriginal rock engravings, before descending to the village of Artenara, at 1270m the highest on Gran Canaria.
Some of the houses are built into the rock and the chapel of the Virgen de la Cuevita, dating from the 18th century, has a cave to itself. One of these troglodyte dwellings has been turned into a museum and furnished as it would have been in the 19th century, with living room, bedrooms, and kitchen. Of course caves had no toilets which led to the Canarian expression “Váyanse pa´las tuneras” which roughly translates as “Go and pee in the cactus”.
Teror © Visit Gran Canaria
Heading in the opposite direction from Walk 1, after a short climb this drops down through dense forest and mixed farmland to Teror. The town is famous for being the site where the Virgin Mary revealed herself