Five of Europe’s best national parks – with all the beauty but none of the crowds
23.04.2024 - 06:26
/ theguardian.com
There is a wild and wonderful water world in the north-eastern corner of Spain. The Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici national park, in the central Pyrenees north of Lleida, is characterised by more than 200 lakes fed by melting snow and ice, plus rivers and streams, gorges, waterfalls and marshes. (Aigüestortes means “winding waters” in Catalan, and Sant Maurici is the biggest lake.)
Visitors can explore by bike – there are 13 routes, from flat family paths to challenging mountain biking. There are also 27 hiking trails with spectacular viewpoints over the lakes, which reflect the surrounding forests and mountains. These include Los Encantados, a pair of near-identical peaks. Wildlife includes bearded vultures and grouse, one of the emblems of the Pyrenees.
In the Vall de Boi, eight Romanesque churches and a hermitage, all built in the 11th and 12th centuries, are characterised by tall narrow bell towers. It is possible to visit them all in a day, walking between the villages. After that, walkers can relax in Caldes de Boi thermal spa, which is set in large gardens and has 37 natural springs.
June and July are among the best times to visit, to experience the Fallas festivals. In these centuries-old midsummer rituals enormous torches are carried down the mountains into the villages, where a great bonfire is lit and the party begins. This year, the dates are 14 June in Durro, 23 June in Boí, 6 July in Barruera, 13 July in Erill la Vall, 19 July in Taüll and 26 July in el Pla de l’Ermita.
Accommodation includes the Aigüestortes Camping Resort (from €25 for a pitch for two) and a network of mountain refuges, including Amitges (€40 B&B). Wild camping is not allowed. There are daily coach services from Barcelona, Lleida and Tremp to most of the villages around the park, and from June to September a park bus connects the two main entrances, Boi and Espot.
In the far south-east corner of France, between the southernmost Alps and the Mediterranean Sea, lies the Mercantour national park. Half a dozen uninhabited valleys stretch for 100 miles, from Barcelonnette to Sospel, with scattered villages around the periphery. This diverse landscape, from almost alpine to coastal, provides a habitat for a huge range of wildlife. Of more than 2,000 species of flowers and plants, 200 are rare and 30 endemic; there are 200 kinds of bird, including golden eagles and ptarmigans, and 78 mammals, including wolves, marmots and all six French ungulates (stag, deer, wild boar, ibex, chamois and mouflon).
One unmissable spot is the Valley of Wonders, a huge archaeological site of about 40,000 rock carvings, with the oldest dating to around 3,000BC. They depict daily life and beliefs, with engravings of cattle, weapons and