Going Antiquing in the South of France with Designers Clare Vivier and Kate Berry

22.08.2024 - 17:28 / cntraveler.com

When Los Angeles–based designer Clare Vivier began decorating the 19th-century house she'd bought in her husband's hometown of Saint-Calais, in France's Loire Valley, she had a particular aesthetic in mind. “I love color and patterns but wanted something peaceful, so the intention was to create a dialogue between those two things,” she says. She wanted the house to have a blend of contemporary pieces, antiques, and textiles from heritage maisons to create a space that, much like her namesake handbag and fashion label, channeled both California fun and French sophistication. She also knew that she wanted her longtime friend Kate Berry, a designer and creative director, to help her make it happen.

Vivier and Berry contemplate a set of Baccarat glasses at La Chose Antiquités

So this past May, the pair, along with Vivier's husband, Thierry, hit the road from Saint-Calais and ventured south to an area of Provence renowned for its artisanal wares and plethora of secondhand designer furnishings and textiles. “This is where the vendors at Paris's flea markets shop then sell at higher prices in Paris,” says Berry. During a week exploring the area, they combed the flea markets of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the expert antique brokers in Arles, and the collections at designer houses in pocket-size villages like Vallabrègues. In addition to the stash of fantastic one-off finds, there's the sense of community here you don't find in places like Paris.

“We'd wander into these shops and the owners would say, ‘You like these pots? You need to go check out my neighbor—he has even more!’” says Vivier. “It never feels transactional. These owners want to talk about you and know what you are doing.” They got tips from their well-connected friends, including Tony Freund, of the editorial marketplace 1stdibs; Xavier Donnelly, of architecture and hospitality firm Ash NYC; and interior designer Rodman Primack. But they kept the schedule loose in order to, as Berry says, “leave room for discovery.”

Inside Jour de Fête, in the town of Valennes

A beet and rhubarb salad with fresh cream at Jour de Fête

Discovery came easy. Beyond the brocanting, the region brims with tiny medieval villages and larger towns. Many have narrow roads that are better explored by foot. “If you get out of the car in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, you will inevitably wander into these tiny courtyards where you will find 10 or so different shops with different antiques,” says Berry. “You would totally miss them if you stayed in a car.” This is not the touristy South of France, known for its glitz and excess. This area is quieter, filled with independent shops and restaurants, teeming with clear rivers. Fewer American accents can be heard. It is in full bloom throughout