I pedaled behind my cycling guide, a young 19-year-old Turk by the name of Yiğit – properly pronounced monosyllabically, he informed me. “Yeat. Like the rapper.”
A generation older than him, I did not know about that 23-year-old artist – nor any Gen Z pop-culture reference for that matter – yet as we rode through the countryside of Turkey’s İzmir Province, I knew that we’d be bonding over bicycles and the local scenery rather than our taste in music.
Many travelers rush through the province of İzmir solely for its famed archaeological attractions, such as the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary. The region, however, richly rewards exploration beyond its main sites. Adjacent to ancient Ephesus is a 3000-year-old yet most modern city that’s considered the country’s most Western-oriented metropolis. (Plus, its seafood restaurants are not to be missed.) Surrounding this cosmopolitan center is a relaxed countryside extending along the central west coast of the country, with a peninsula that reaches out toward the Greek Isles. The province’s landscapes include farmland and vineyards, rugged mountains, beaches and seaside villages – and are all best experienced on a bicycle. I decided to pedal my way through the province on a cycling tour with Argeus Travel, which included a support van and a guide.
On our first ride, Yiğit led me across the Karaburun Peninsula, a northward extension of the bigger, westerly İzmir Peninsula. We pedaled about 51km (32 miles) from the Aegean coastal town of Çeşme to İçmeler, a seaside neighborhood in the district of Urla. The ride began on a coastal palm-tree-lined promenade, the red-tiled roofs of affluent homes on one side, the turquoise and azure waters of the Aegean Sea on the other. The route continued down small roads through seaside communities, eventually leading up to higher ground as we headed east on country roads to cross to the peninsula’s other side. The terrain gradually climbed in elevation – we’d gain about 700m (2300ft) in total – bringing sights of rocky hills and olive trees in a dusty, shrub-filled landscape. Using our muscles to power through, we eventually made it to the peninsula’s east coast, and rode the shoulder of a local highway with rugged seaside views that could have been mistaken for the Pacific Coast Highway in California – if not for the occasional mosque on the side of the road.
“You want to ride faster?” Yiğit asked me.
“No, this is a good pace,” I told him. Perhaps he was itching to speed up after telling me stories of reckless mountain-biking adventures with his friends, the kind of stunts that come with youth. He was fairly passionate about the tales, told in English. “I pretty much learned English by following
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