This story about Viet-Texan cuisine is part ofHome, Made, a collection of stories honoring Asian diasporas creating vibrant communities by weaving their heritages with their American hometowns. Read more here.
At 11 a.m. on any given weekend, Houstonians descend upon Blood Bros. BBQ in an unassuming strip mall in the Southwest suburb of Bellaire, a major enclave of Asian immigrants. Inside, Astros and Texans memorabilia hangs on the walls, and aromas of pecan and oak smoke permeate the air. Behind the counter, classic brisket burnt ends are stuffed into steam buns topped with pickled jicama, cucumbers, hoisin-barbecue sauce, and green onions, or tossed with flat noodles and gai lan, or Chinese broccoli.
Call the cuisine here Viet-Texan, the evolutionary next step from Viet-Cajun, a fusion cuisine popularized around 15 years ago and pioneered when Vietnamese immigrants, who arrived en masse here after the Vietnam War, adapted their native seafood boils with local ingredients and set a new standard for diasporic American cuisines. It's their kids, the second-gen Vietnamese, leading now. For this generation of chefs, entrepreneurs, and Texans, phở and barbecue evoke a sense of home in equal measure.
At Khói, Don Nguyen, seen here with with collaborator and sausage maker Bill Dumas, imbues Vietnamese classics with Southern-style smoking.
Khói's whole hog bánh cuốn (steamed rice rolls) are a Northern Vietnamese specialty with a Texan spin.
“Barbecue is safe ground,” says Don Nguyen, the founder of Khói, a recurring Houston pop-up that launched in 2017. “It's iconic for all Texans, and we're as Texan as anyone else.” Born in Vietnam, Nguyen moved to Space City when he was five. At Khói, which translates to “smoke,” Nguyen celebrates his heritage with takes on Central Vietnamese noodle soups like mì Quảng, or turmeric noodles, using meat from a Carolina-style whole hog roast. The broth for the flagship beef phở, meanwhile, is reimagined through chicken broth infused with smoked beef ribs—then crowned with brisket smoked in Phú Quốc island pepper.
Blood Bros. BBQ, which also started as a pop-up before becoming a brick-and-mortar in 2018, is the brainchild of pitmaster Quy Hoang and his partners Robin and Terry Wong. While the menu skews more classic Texan, the owners also nod to their Vietnamese and Chinese roots with dishes like bánh mì sandwiches stuffed with either smoked turkey or char siu pork loin.
“Vietnamese food and Texas BBQ are both comfort foods—this is why I think the flavors and meats work harmoniously,” Hoang says, citing his adaptation of thịt nướng, or marinated pork grilled over coals as an example. “This was a dish that I grew up eating a lot with my family. We decided to use the same
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