Pelicans preen and glide. Jacana birds, precise as ballerinas, point their improbably elongated toes. Pied kingfishers flit in and out of their lakeside nest holes, saddle-billed storks patrol the grassy banks and skimmers speed across the silver-blue water, scooping up beakfuls mid-flight. Everywhere I look, there are birds in abundance. The safari boat is the perfect platform from which to watch: open-sided, smooth and near-silent.
Southwest Uganda’s Kazinga Channel is south of the Equator, but only just. On the journey here, I passed from one hemisphere to the other, pausing at zero degrees to take photos and hear the cheerful patter of a roadside opportunist with a pair of painted funnels, one on either side of the line. With practised sleight of hand, he poured water into each. Down it swirled, clockwise in the north, anticlockwise in the south. “It’s the Coriolis effect!” he declared.
Now, as I putter along the channel, it’s my mind that’s spinning. Like a theme park stocked with flocks of animatronics, it’s all too perfect to be true. But on this squiggle of fresh water, roughly 22 miles long and 2,500ft wide, there’s no trickery: it’s a naturally magical spot. “Often, we’ll spot 60 or 70 species of bird on a single excursion,” says Yasin Mubiru, my softly spoken skipper for the afternoon, who lives locally and knows the channel’s natural history inside out.
Many of the birds are so unfazed by our approach that there’s barely any need to reach for my binoculars, and the Kazinga Channel is so calm, you could count the ripples. Though officially a river, its flow is almost imperceptible. Lying within the Albertine Rift, the 750-mile arc of lakes and mountains that separates Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi and Tanzania from the Democratic Republic of Congo, the channel connects two natural basins at a near-identical altitude — Lake Rutanzige (also known by its colonial name, Lake Edward) and Lake Katunguru (also called Lake George). Together, they provide year-round water for the forest-scattered grasslands that surround them: the Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area (QECA), Uganda’s most biodiverse protected zone.
The channel bisects this area’s core: the 764sq-mile Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP). Bird-wise, it’s booming. Though smaller than East Africa’s blockbuster safari destinations — Kenya’s Maasai Mara or Tanzania’s Serengeti — QENP harbours considerably more avian species: over 600, in fact, a number that, according to BirdLife International, no protected area in Africa can beat. A relaxed and accessible wildlife haven, it also has low-cost entry fees, friendly guides and an excellent mix of places to stay, ranging from bare-bones accommodation to eco-luxury lodges. If you’re fairly new to
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Of the many conveniences that hotels offer, few are as welcome as the in-house breakfast. Whether you’re raring to go or still slumped over after that early morning wake-up, there’s no better reward for having made it out of bed at all than the sumptuous spread that awaits. Here, we’ve rounded up the most sublime hotel breakfasts our editors have enjoyed this year, comprising national dishes, pastry repasts, snow-day bread baskets, and so much more.
A European country has taken over the top spot as the world’s most powerful passport, according to a new index by VisaGuide.World. As of December, the Spanish passport has claimed first place from Singapore, a new study by the visa advice website has found.
Destinations worldwide are courting Indian travelers, including countries throughout Africa. Authorities in several African nations are ramping up their efforts to attract visitors from the rapidly growing market.
There is no question about it: 2023 has been a tremendous year for hotel openings, not just in the U.S. but spanning some of our favorite destinations across the globe. Now, it's time for the travel experts at TPG and our global network of contributors to share our annual list of the best new hotels of 2023, with recommendations for where you should spend your hard-earned money, points and free night certificates.
Sunset descends like a dream in Kenya’s Lamu archipelago: Each evening, the channel separating the islands of Manda and Lamu is anointed in a hazy veil of golden light as dhows pirouette in the water, triangle sails billowing overhead. I gazed out over a carousel of boats from my perch on the deck of Taqwa, delighting in the snatches of American hip-hop, Afrobeats, and Bollywood bangers emanating from them as they passed by. At some point, Taqwa sailed in tandem with a smaller vessel boasting the best playlist on the water. As we floated together companionably, a romantic Swahili tune filled the air—and for a moment, the weather, landscape, and music came together in a sublime alchemy that left me breathless.
With its expansive views, vast national parks and small towns that offer a glimpse into local life and culture, Kenya is the perfect place to take a road trip.
In this series, Lonely Planet’s team of writers and editors answer your travel problems and provides tips and hacks to help you plan a hassle-free trip. When it came to a question about a 4WD self-drive safari in Africa, we knew Namibia-based guidebook writer Mary Fitzpatrick would have the answer.
Go2Africa recently announced what purports to be the world’s most expensive wildlife safari. For $690,000, a family of four will visit six African countries (including Kenya, South Africa and the Seychelles) over 24 days. The luxurious accommodations range from tented safari camps to beachfront villas, and remote wellness retreats. The package also includes hot air balloon rides, gorilla trekking—even a personal film crew to document the journey.
In the impossibly abundant rainforests of central Africa, one of the world’s great travel experiences awaits. Mountain gorillas live in only three countries—Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda—hidden in the dense bush; complex family units unknowingly fighting for their very survival.
Every year since 2009, the World’s 50 Best Bars has released its list of top tipple temples from across the globe. Not once has a single bar from Africa ever qualified for that list. It actually remains the only habitable continent on earth to be denied such a spot. And it’s not for lack of trying. There are countless candidates from Morocco all the way down to Cape Town befitting of the merit. None are knocking on the door quite so loudly as Hero Bar in the heart of Nairobi, Kenya.