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08.12.2023 - 16:09 / forbes.com
In the impossibly abundant rainforests of central Africa, one of the world’s great travel experiences awaits. Mountain gorillas live in only three countries—Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda—hidden in the dense bush; complex family units unknowingly fighting for their very survival.
It was 1993, 30 years ago this year, that the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) started hosting tourists on jungle expeditions in search of mountain gorillas. The thinking behind these ranger-led forays was to protect both the gorillas and their mountain forest environment from the encroachment of man—habitat destruction, loggers, miners and poachers. By increasing awareness of their plight, gaining valuable column inches in support of their cause, and charging an arm and a leg to see them in the flesh, the UWA has had remarkable success. In 1981, when the film Gorillas in the Mist brought the pioneering work of Diane Fossey to the world’s attention, there were just 242 mountain gorillas living in the wild. By 2018 there were 459 and today that number is estimated at more than a thousand.
While the numbers are encouraging, the future of the mountain gorilla is by no means secure. And tourism remains the most powerful weapon in the conservation war. The focal point in Uganda is the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (BINP) on the southern fringes of the Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area, a protected region of mind-blowing biodiversity and home to more than half the world’s mountain gorilla population. It’s here in these impossibly wild highlands that Uganda’s great ape community meets its public, under the carefully curated eye of several safari operators.
Not far from Bwindi’s entrance, along a rugged red-mud road, the bustling Batwa town of Buhoma. Its streets are lined with wonderfully-named local stores (“Excellent Drug Shop”), agritourism businesses run by reformed poachers, non-profit organizations like Ride 4 A Woman, the Gorilla Health Centre Community Conservation Centre, and, for 25 years, one of the pioneers of gorilla ecotourism, Volcanoes Safaris.
Volcanoes’ signature Bwindi Lodge plays a significant role in this environment, not only for the gorillas but equally for the community. Among its many initiatives, a tea growing partnership with local communities in the lodge’s grounds. Tea has proven a handy buffer crop between forested and human habitats, as the animals don’t feed on it and so don’t stray from the safety of the forest on crop raids—the cause of much of the area’s human-wildlife conflict.
In town, Volcanoes has opened the lively Bwindi Bar to train chefs and waiting staff, serving ‘Gorillini’ cocktails and the ubiquitous ‘Ugandan Rolex’, an egg omelet and vegetables wrapped in a chapati.
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In 1775, Benjamin Franklin was appointed the first Postmaster General.
Standing on a frozen ridge at Bosworth Field, my feeling is that there are certainly less attractive places to draw one’s last breath. On this frigid December afternoon, I’m looking out at a mist-shrouded hinterland of crisscrossing fields as a milky orange sun sinks behind a distant smudge of cloud. Somewhere out there on that bleak horizon in August 1485, King Richard III died a violent death, made all the more visceral by the gaudy array of spiked weapons hanging on a wall inside the nearby Bosworth Battlefield Heritage Centre, celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2024.
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“Last August, I spent two weeks in Africa with six of my best mates. I was at this point in my life when I didn't want to go chill on another beach or sit at a hotel or even party; I wanted to be out learning things and experiencing cultures. Africa had been on my mind—and I'd been to South Africa before—so we made our way across Namibia, Tanzania, Kenya, and Rwanda. In Serengeti National Park, in Tanzania, we missed the Great Migration but saw plenty of hippos and elephants. In Kenya, we visited the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary—a community-owned organization that takes in orphaned animals—where we got to feed baby giraffes. Another day, we flew to Mount Kenya in a helicopter. About three quarters of the way up, we hovered over one of its many beautiful volcanic lakes, and I jumped right in...like, straight out of the chopper and into the lake. It was absolutely freezing. One of the most rewarding parts of the trip was trekking through Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, where we hiked for two days through the jungle to spot gorillas. Along the way, we stumbled across these remote villages, meeting people who told us stories of their lives and kids who welcomed us with smiles and music. It was surreal to realize that my ancestors came from a place like this. But nothing prepared me for the moment when we finally saw the gorillas. We came across this flat piece of land, and suddenly there they were: a group of about 10 mountain gorillas within a meter of us. It was mind-blowing. Seeing them there, so relaxed in their natural habitat, was incredibly moving. I remember thinking, This is where they should be, in their homes—free.”
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Pelicans preen and glide. Jacana birds, precise as ballerinas, point their improbably elongated toes. Pied kingfishers flit in and out of their lakeside nest holes, saddle-billed storks patrol the grassy banks and skimmers speed across the silver-blue water, scooping up beakfuls mid-flight. Everywhere I look, there are birds in abundance. The safari boat is the perfect platform from which to watch: open-sided, smooth and near-silent.
Imagine the darkest time of year in Sweden, when the sun never climbs above the horizon in the northernmost part of the country, and in Stockholm, the capital, there’s a scant six hours of daylight. Every day is shorter and gloomier than the last until the nadir — the darkest day of the year — when a young woman appears dressed in a white gown with a blazing crown of candles on her head, singing a familiar song and spreading warmth and light on a frigid winter morning.